Mystic - Another Orange Lingerie Pattern Release!

No sooner had I finished the Orange Lingerie Lansdowne when the Mystic bra pattern flashed up on Instagram. It is described as a seamless t-shirt bra providing invisible shaping and support underneath even the most fitted garments! Never mind the numerous other projects I have stacked I just had to try. A busy work week so I had to wait until the weekend. So just in time for Strictly I managed another gorgeous set.

IMG_1585 (2).jpg

The pattern is based on pre-formed foam bra cups. Luckily, I had a pair in my stash purchased from BWear when I first attempted making bras. I had used two sets for the Pin-Up Girl’s Anita/Amelia Foam Cup Bra Pattern. This offers both a lace and fabric cup option with a lace full band. I had bought the pattern after watching Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy Class Sewing Bras: Foam, Lace & Beyond. Then I had tried a self drafted partial band which I found hard going because of the bulk of the foam on the bottom edge of the cup. So I was intrigued to see how Orange Lingerie tackled the issue.

I knew from previous makes that you need your fabric to be really stretchy so I looked around for some soft jersey scraps and there on the pile was this super organic cotton from Jelly Fabrics I had just used to line my Charlie Jacket. I only had black foam cups but when I stretched the fabric over slightly it looked fine so I went ahead.

I read the instructions and the trick is to to attach a seam allowance to the inside of the cup. I struggled to find something appropriate and I ended up with some tape. Once you have the tape in place you have to place your fabric with the greatest stretch direction in line with the upper edge and then manipulate until you get out all the creases.

This does take some time and patience. You just need to keep moving the pins around until the creases eventually are stretched out, taking care not to distort the foam cup. Once you are happy with this you then mark a line on the upper cup as well as a notch in the middle on both the fabric and cup. You then need to take out your pins and put the right side of the fabric against the cup with the line matching the edge as well as the notches. You sew an 1/8” seam along the edge and then roll the fabric over and then start the placing of the fabric all over again. When all the wrinkles have gone you sew the fabric to the new seam allowance and cut the the underarm fabric back to 3/8”.

I did one cup and decided to try something different with the second for a smoother look. I left attaching the seam allowance until after I finished the upper edge and got the fabric back in place. Then I basted the fabric in place along the side and bottom edge. With the fabric in place I butted fusible tape along the edge of the cup and fused to the fabric only and then trimmed back to the 1/4” seam allowance.

IMG_1570.jpg

With the cups done I had to choose what fabric to use for the rest of the bra. I had some matching red jersey as well as some aqua marine stretch mesh from Costura Secret Shop. Then a decision between red findings or a Fit2Sew findings kit in turquoise. Too much choice but I decided on using the same fabric for the bridge and side band with two layers of the mesh for the back band. With this combination the turquoise findings looked best.

IMG_1574 (2).jpg

On to the bridge. The pattern does say to stabilise if using your cup fabric. This is really important as I found out in previous makes. The jersey stretches out and causes creases when used with a stable lining. So I used an ultra soft fusible to stabilise. Initially I was going to use black sheer lining to match the foam cup but changed to beige. Attaching the bridge to the cups is quite fiddly to get right but worth the effort.

The elastic is added to the cup at this stage. On the first pass the elastic is attached to the fabric seam allowance only. You then attach stabiliser to the end of the elastic so that it is not stretched out by the strap. The pattern has you hand stitch the elastic in place using a fell stitch. However, I just used a machine zigzag as thought a stronger finish and my hand stitching is not very neat.

After stabilising the side bands I used temporary adhesive spray to attach the beige lining to the back and also to keep the two layers of mesh together. The back band is then attached to the side band. This should be pressed towards the side band but my fabric preferred to sit the other way because of the bulk. So rather than overlock the seam and add extra bulk I topstitched close to the edge and trimmed back to the stitching. I think it is worth saying it would be hard to pattern match the cups. I started with two different flamingos in the middle of each cup and this looks fine. However, with so much moving of the fabric you could struggle to be anymore precise.

After attaching the top and bottom elastic to the bands you make the strap. Before attaching the strap I checked the fit of the fastener. The band was too wide so I pinned the two sides together and reshaped to fit. This ensures the bands are exactly the same.

The bands are then attached to the cups. There is an awful lot of bulk where the two elastics meet on the underarm but thankfully not an issue for the sewing machine. Just the chaneling to do before attaching the strap. Before sealing off the ends I made sure that the wires fit through . All done and on to making a matching set.

The Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief is a perfect match as it has an innovative design that eliminates elastic from the bottom for a smooth profile under clothing. I have made this pattern a number of times as it is a really comfortable fit. Although a pattern for a lace front there is a great guide on Norma’s website for a simple adaption so you can use fabric.

You just need to add the seam allowance for the waist elastic and because you are not using the edge of the lace you can draw a light curve for the waist. To make sure it was symmetrical I folded the pattern piece over and used on the fold rather than cut on one layer. To use as much of my fabric as I could I also added the gusset to the panel, rather than use the mesh. So you need to eliminate the seam allowance . This would mean I wouldn’t be able to enclose the front seam but not a big issue for me. I overlocked the front edge and basted in place.

The findings kit was just for a bra so there was not enough 3/8” elastic for both the legs and waist. The kit does contain a neck edge elastic which is rather decorative so I used this for the waist instead. I always put my waist elastic join on the side but the match on this was so good you can’t see it! The guide does say not to stretch the elastic over the front panel as it is meant for a rigid lace. However, this jersey is very stretchy so I calculated my usual deduction and distributed the elastic evenly. Worked perfectly.

Another fabulous make. It is a time consuming process but worth the effort. It did help that I had used a similar method before and knew what size cup, wire and back band works for me and all made from my stash.

No Stopping Me Now - Orange Lingerie Lansdowne and Blossom4Binky

A rather selfish weekend of sewing but I have so many beautiful kits stacked up I just had to use one of them. So as we head into Autumn I thought I would use the strikingly colourful kit from CosturaSecretShop. Then I had to decide what to make with it. Orange Lingerie has just released the new Lansdowne bra pattern so that decision was made. Then Evie la Luve posted a fabulous Blossom set on Instagram and having bought the add on pattern as soon as it came out it was time to give it a try. Feeling quite smug for a number of reasons.

IMG_1561.jpg

I have made all the other Orange Lingerie patterns using the same size but as the Lansdowne is a partial band bra I thought I would make my usual paper cup and check. I really like the fact that the PDF pattern has a set of pieces for each size and that the seam allowances are marked. I just cut off the seam allowances and tape together along the cup seam. Looked fine.

The positioning of the lace is made easy as the seam allowances are marked and you can see exactly where the lace will join the bridge and where the strap ring will be attached. I lined with a nude bra tulle from my stash and used clear elastic to stabilise which I attached using a three step zigzag.

Then I had some decisions to make. The kit came with white sheer lining, nude picot elastic, blue strap elastic, black powernet and a black fastener. I hadn’t really picked up on the coral from the pictures I had seen of makes from the kit. I really love the contrast of the coral and the blue and remembered ordering some notions from Madalynne. Wow! So I swapped the elastics.

The outer cup requires stable fabric but as the scuba has some stretch in one direction I lined with the white sheer lining to stablise. This also meant I could enclose the cup seam for a neater finish. I decided against using the fabric for the band as thought this would be too much and used some navy powernet from my stash rather than the black from the kit. Rather than overlock the band to the side band, which creates bulk, I just did two rows of straight top stitching to keep in place. This is fine with scuba which doesn’t fray.

On to the band elastic and the usual dilemma when using different colour elastic and fabric. What colour thread to use? So I did the first pass in beige/nude which blends into the coral really well. However, the colour wasn’t good enough for the contrast on the navy powernet. So had the blue on top and kept the beige in the bobbin, sewing the second pass with the fabric right side up. Also, for a better colour match I used navy duoplex for the lining of the bridge. As with my previous partial band I attached the bands and bridge in one go, sewing from one side of the cup to to the other, to leave a guide for attaching the channeling. Looking pretty.

Applied the channeling as with the previous make. The photo shows how I mark the channeling once the first pass has been done. Once the second pass has been done I applied some iron on seam tape to the end of the elastic to provide stability for the ring attachment. Easier and less bulk than sew on.

I still couldn’t make my mind up about the strap elastic as the coral was a little narrow but looked so much better. I chose the coral and then switched to rose gold findings. Before applying the strap elastic I checked the fit of the fastener. As I had used slightly narrower elastic I had to shave some off the band to fit. As always I reshape the bands pinned together so exactly the same.

IMG_1320.jpg

Bra finished and on to the Blossom4Binky. The big issue I had was how I was going to cut out the scuba neatly. Then I had a brain wave. I would see if my Cricut Maker could cut the fabric. No setting for scuba but thought I would try the spandex setting. I made a little design with half circles and watched carefully as the rotary blade cut a perfect circle. So next it was how to get the design into Circut Design Space. I played around taking pictures of the pattern piece, uploading and trying to clean up. Unfortunately this was not good enough as this didn’t give clean edges. So I spent a very worthwhile Saturday morning googling and came up with a free package called Inkscape. I opened the PDF in the program and basically traced using the Bezier pen. You make straight lines from point to point and then shape the curves. Amazing, within a short while I had an SVG file for the Cricut. When I opened in Cricut I had to resize as some SVGs do not import the correct size. Easily done and a perfect cut!

IMG_1559.jpg

For the main front I used a stretch mesh I bought in the same order from CosturaSecretShop. I used temporary spray adhesive to keep in place whilst I sewed very carefully around the scalloped edge. It was really hard to see the edge in places but I went really slow. I then enclosed the front seam between the gusset and gusset lining. I even pattern matched the gusset so well you can’t see the join in the picture.

I used the lace for the back. The Binky has two options - full back and half back. The lace wasn’t quite wide enough for the full back. So to make life easier I just used a scrap of fabric behind the lace and used a small zigzag stitch along the scalloped edge. Then I trimmed the fabric back to the stitching. Just the elastic to apply. I didn’t have enough coral for both waist and leg so used the coral on the waist and the blue on the leg.

I know the Binky fits well but this Blossom version is gorgeous. It just looks fantastic with the Lansdowne. The fit and shape of this bra is all I expected from Orange Lingerie. With all the new skills where do I go next!

IMG_1560.jpg

Latte at Midnight - Evie la Luve pattern release

Inspired by Emerald Erin's Latte at Midnight blog I bought the tulle bra kit and matching bamboo fabric and latte elastic to make a set.  Been busy at work so only just got around to deciding what to make.

IMG_1284.jpg

The bra pattern choice was easy.  I love the Orange Lingerie Marlborough and thought the bra tulle would look good in this style.   So what to make for the set?  I was going to draft my own pattern along the lines of Erin's blog but then I saw on Tailormadeshop's Instagram that Evie la Luve had introduced a new pattern called the Binky.  A big fan I bought both this pattern and her other new release - the Darcey soft bra.  I also realised I hadn't been following her on Instagram!  A quick tap of a button - I don't want to miss any more pattern releases.

Initially I wasn't going to use lace as the kit didn't come with any but when I saw the Binky pattern I thought I would like to get some in there.  I only had scraps of lace from previous kits and even then the colour was more navy than the midnight.  Rummaging around in my lace bag I came across a small piece that had come with my very first bra kit.  It was a test make and I thought a waste of lace.  Not enough for the lace back so thought I would try for the half lace back.  

Such a tight squeeze I ended up photocopying the lace and placing the actual lace on white paper so I could see.  Dark blue on green is not easy.  I thought it best to get the upper cups to match.  Not quite enough lace so the back isn't quite symmetrical but close enough not to be noticeable.  The next big dilemma was the fold over elastic.  I had only ordered plush elastic.  Back to the stash. I had the perfect colour that I had got in a batch from Minerva in an attempt to always have a stock of my most used colours.  Had two metres when the pattern requirements was for 3 metres.  A quick check against the pattern pieces and it would be a close call!  

The Marlborough has been covered so often that just adding a few comments about this particular construction.  I used temporary adhesive to attach the bra tulle to the lace cup.  I prefer to use 1/4" clear elastic, to stabilise the upper cup just under the scallops, using a three step zigzag the width of the elastic.  This seems to work better for me than normal colour matched elastic.  I used two layers of tulle so I could enclose the cup seams.  After I topstitched in place I trimmed the seams back to the stitching so it would look neater from the right side.  I normally wouldn't overlock edges but I wanted to cover the latte powernet seam allowance.  After I had done all I could in the dark blue thread I moved on to the Binky as I didn't want to keep changing thread.

The bamboo knit is so soft and silky but it does mean it can be very stretchy and a little awkward to work with.  I always start sewing with some Stitch N Tear and go slowly using a stretch stitch and a bamboo stiletto to feed the layers evenly.  

I combined style 3 and 4 so had to read the instructions carefully to make sure I got in the right order!

I marked out the point I had to pivot and it came out pretty good with back seam in the right place.  I enclosed the front between the gusset and gusset lining and then basted the gusset pieces using a silk thread which pulls out easily and without leaving a mark.  On to the fold over elastic and a change of thread.  I normally leave a tail of elastic at each end as I find it easy to start and stop but with such a small margin I decided not to.  Makes life a little more difficult but nothing like running out of elastic.

Then I applied the elastic to the front and side front pattern pieces, basted the front sides to the front before appling the elastic to leg openings.  Then back to bra to use the latte thread for the straps.

howtoadjusthookandeye-05.jpg

 I always dab glue stick on both sides of strap elastic to keep it in place whilst sewing and I tend to use my walking foot.  Before I attach the strap to the back I ensure that it fits neatly into the fastener.  The back was a little wide so I mark where it needs to be, redraw a smooth line to blend, pin both sides together and then cut to ensure the backs match.  I also use the stick glue on the inside of the fasteners.

Back to blue thread for the gusset and sides and then I overlock.  I finished the bra by attaching the ring to the front, again using the stick glue to keep in place.

Just the waist elastic to do - with an 1" of elastic over.  So glad I was careful.  I wasn't looking forward to attaching, especially in the gap,  but I took my time and it was fine.

Looking gorgeous all over.  I made my usual Evie la Luve size in the Binky and a perfect fit sitting exactly where they are supposed to.  It goes without saying the Marlborough is a sensational fit.  I never stopped being amazed at what I can produce!

Madalynne Simplicity X 8624 and Orange Lingerie Kingston Thong

As there is a beautifully photographed 3 day sew along on the blog this is a short post on the Madalynne X Simplicity 8624 pattern and the white and yellow bra kit. As an an alternative to making the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief, as I always do when I have a small amount of lace, I tried the Kingston thong.

1520177816558 (3).JPEG

The first point to make is that the kit is made in a slightly different way to the pattern so do check carefully especially for the fit of the hook and eye fastener.  

When using lace I like to mark the seam allowance on the pattern so I can see the point at which the lace will meet.  I cut out one side and then flip over to find the perfect pattern match.  I then place the pattern piece over rather than just cut around the pattern.  For the back band I have used a spray adhesive to hold the lace to the powernet and then cut out in one.

The foam cups are butted together and sewn using a zigzag.  Personally I use a stitch length of 4 and stitch width of 1.5 as taught by Beverly Johnson on her Craftsy Class.  Then I overlock the upper edge of the cup.  At this point I would just like to mention the thread I use for lingerie which is Gutermann Mara 120 industry quality polyester.  Another tip from Beverly.  Is is really fine and blends into the fabric.

The elastic is added to the back band and then attached to the cup.  The elastic is placed behind the lace which is different to the pattern where it sits on top.   This where you need to check the fit of the hook and eye.  Then the elastic is added to join the two cups.  It is really important to get this in the right place.  Depending on the size you are making you may want to use ribbon instead of elastic.  I used a white iron on stabiliser the width of the elastic.  Just the very pretty straps to do.  After making up I attached at the front, put on the hook and eye fastener and tried on so I could check the position of the straps at the back.  I had to move over to the middle slightly for them to sit correctly.

What to make with the leftovers?  With such a small amount of lace I went for the Kingston thong which like the Montgomery brief as a front lace panel.  I had plenty of stretch mesh over to line.  I spray baste together and cut as one on paper which I find helps give a clean cut with lace.  There was enough yellow elastic for the waist and I added white elastic for the legs, a cream lightweight powernet for the back and gusset as well as narrow elastic to match the mesh for the top of the lace panel.

As with the Montgomery the back seam is enclosed.  This is done by folding one side along the fold line wrong sides together. Then fold the other side around this piece with right sides together and stitch the back seam through all layers.  You then bring to the right side by bringing the top back piece over the seam.  Very pretty as I do like to tell myself!

Emerald Erin Jordy Bralette - Lace overlay version

Just a quick look at the making of the lace overlay version of the Jordy Bralette along with the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief.

IMG_1216.jpg

This time I used the lovely Emerald Erin kit.  Everything I have ordered from the website has been great quality. 

What I like about the pattern is that seam allowances are marked which is particularly helpful when cutting out lace.  As you can see from the second picture I have the point at which the lace cups meet at the low point of the scallop edge.  I then flip over and match for the other side.  I have also placed white paper under the lace so I can actually see the pattern and also helps with a clean cut.  

There was enough of the bra tulle to line the cups.  So for the inner cups I used temporary spray adhesive to keep the lace, tulle and tulle lining in place.  For the outer cup I used the spray to keep the lace and tulle in place.  You can use either a small zigzag or straight stitch along the scallop edge of the lace to attach to tulle.  Then I sandwiched the inner cup between the outer cup and lining.  Perfectly matched cups!

The fold over elastic is then applied to the inner cup first, then the outer cup leaving a tail to attach straps.  I also used some stabilising tape to the tail.  The cups are then attached to the band.  I like to draw in the line along which I can pin the cups.  I sew along the bottom of the cup first on the wrong side and then flip over and sew along the top of the band so all perfectly straight lines. I then trim any excess back to the zigzag.  I did think about overlocking the bottom of the cup but didn't want to create any uncomfortable bulk.

Just the straps left to do,  I like to use a glue pen to keep the straps in place as I sew. 

As I always like to make a set so I went for the Montgomery brief as only a small amount of lace. I used the tulle to line the lace as it does have stretch in one direction.  I attach the clear elastic along the scallop edge with a three step zigzag.  

Back and front prepared, leg elastic added and nearly there.  Just the side seams to finish.

Lingerie Weekend - Tailor Made Order Arrived

I waited in eager anticipation for my order from the Tailor Made Shop to arrive which included the Orange Lingerie Marborough bra kit.  I order as soon as Ying posts new kits on Instagram as they seem to get snapped up in minutes.   I have been so busy so had to wait until weekend to start making.  Good job it was cold and wet all weekend!

IMG_1105.jpg

There wasn't a bra and underwear kit available but from previous experience there is always enough to make something to match the bra.  I was not disappointed!  Plenty of the charmeuse and probably enough lace.  I had also ordered a pink findings kit, blush stretch mesh, wires and various other bits.

IMG_1098.jpg

As I wanted to make a matching set I decided not to use the peach findings and powernet that came with the kit and used blush from my stash.  Then I had to decide what underwear patterns I could get out of the fabric I had.  The first issue was that the charmeuse is a woven and most of my patterns call for stretch.  Then I didn't have a huge amount of lace.  So I got out my lace patterns.  I went for the Ohhlulu's Claudia as I could just scrape out my size and I had enough fabric to cut the front panel on the bias.  As I had just bought the blush stretch mesh I thought I would make up the Montgomery Brief which is designed to match the Marborough Bra pattern.  

I have made all three before and had the pattern pieces ready.  The bra went together beautifully but I was not too fond of the charmeuse as it does fray quickly.  The construction process allows you to enclose all seams between the fabric and the non-stretch lining.  Before topstitching each seam I did have to tidy up the fabric in the seam allowance.  I also line the lace as well as attaching narrow elastic as it gives much better support.  Although the hook and eye should fit I always check before attaching the strap.  I had to shave a little off the back band.  When making and attaching the strap I switch to my walking foot.  I also use a water soluble glue stick to keep the strap in place whilst I sew.  This way I always get perfectly aligned straps.  I had to cut down my wires which  I then re seal with some plastic tubing and use a heat gun to shrink wrap around the end.  A bit of fray check on the wire casing and I was done.

The Montgomery brief is such a quick and satisfying make.  The pattern is for a lace front panel.  Although online shows a picture with a fabric front details are not included in the pattern but there is great blog on how to make the adjustment.. As my plush elastic colour wasn't just right for me I used some blush FOE instead of using the plush along the whole of the waist.  

Then onto the Claudia Panties.  Another great fitting pattern for me and lots of options.  I had to squeeze the lace panels out so couldn't match up but you don't really notice because of the design.  I chose some pretty decorative elastic for the leg line in white which I thought would look better against the white gusset lining than the multi colour fabric.  Also, although I do have a cover stitch machine, I was worried about the fabric fraying on such a narrow seam.  The blush FOE was perfect to finish.  The best ever advice from Norma, Orange Lingerie, is to steam you garment when finished as this relaxes the elastic after the sewing process.  It makes a huge difference.

IMG_1106.jpg

Thought I would finish with a picture of the back of the briefs and the inside of the bra.  Just so pretty!

 

 

 

 

The Berkeley Kit from Tailor Made

My order from the Tailor Made shop shipped promptly.   However, when I opened up the parcel I realised I had been so eager to place my order before they ran out I forgot to change the wire size. I now have four size 30 wires - there must be somebody there that can use them!

IMG_0905 (2).jpg

Having decided to make the navy first, the other is raspberry/pale pink, my first thought was to check whether there was enough lace to a make a set.  Oh yes!  My go to pattern for all lace is the Bella from Evie la Luve.  The website describes them as a low cut waist and sheer design

IMG_0904.jpg

I just had to take a picture of everything cut out.  I saw a man's face but the other half thought it looked like an owl.  

I made the panties first because I had had a long day and didn't want to start the bra.  You can just serge all the seams but on curves, as in the back seam, I sew with a stretch stitch first.

Not having any navy fold over elastic (foe) I  went for the red.  I  sometimes have issues with foe as I think I over stretch.  A great tip from Norma at Orange Lingerie is to steam the finished garment to relax the elastic from the sewing process.  Works every time.  Although with this lace this wasn't too much of an issue.

The kits comes with two linings.  A 15-denier tricot for  more give and a softer shape and a non-stretch tricot for more support. For the first bra I made I used non-stretch except for the upper cups where I used bra tulle.  I was a little worried as the non-stretch was black not navy.  So for the upper and lower cups I used the 15-denier and the non-stretch for the bridge and power bar although  I  toyed with the idea using a non-stretch red.  However, as the black is placed behind lined lace it is hard to tell it is black.  

This bra goes together so well I had it finished within a few hours.  I did remember to stabilise the elastic at the ring attachment point.  You can use the non-stretch tricot but I used fusible non-stretch stay tape.  

I just need to finish off with a red bow to match the foe elastic. Job done.

 

The Berkeley

So here is the all lace Berkeley from Orange Lingerie.  It was only meant to be a tester but it looks and fits amazing.  Having only just finished my first Marlborough, another orange lingerie pattern,  I didn't think I would get anything that fit as well.  So I was over the moon with this. 

IMG_0832.jpg

I only joined Instagram a couple of days ago so I was really happy that a notification popped up to say that Tailor Made had released a number of kits.  I was able to order the navy and white/raspberry.  From the comments the navy ran out pretty quick.

Pattern downloaded  I was ready to go. I always print off instructions as I find this much easier to work with and I always read through them before starting.  Orange Lingerie patterns are fabulous.  Every step is clearly described and illustrated even down to stitch length and width.  

There are separate pattern pieces for each size, showing seam allowances and /or trim allowances.  I find this very useful when deciding where to place lace  and checking the width for the fastener.

Having made a few bras I am getting better at gauging the size.  For me, I have found that I usually end up making a smaller band size with a larger cup than the instructions indicate,  However, a lot does depend on the fabric you are using. I start by making a 3D paper version, trimming off the seam allowances and taping together with magic tape.  

Happy with the size I printed off again for my pattern pieces.  I found a small length of stretch lace  that  I could play with.  For the rest of the fabric and notions needed I always have a stash of beige, white, red and black mostly from B Wear.  

IMG_0803.jpg

The instructions are really helpful for lace placement.  This pattern shows seam allowances, otherwise I would mark them in, as you need to know where the lace pieces join for a scalloped edge.  The easiest way I have found is to place one side, checking for pattern balance and then cut out.  I then flip the pieces over placing right sides together on the remaining fabric where the pattern matches.  

IMG_0817.jpg

So all cut out with perfectly mirrored lace.  I attached the linings to the lace with temporary spray.  Not in the pattern, but I have also lined the upper cup with bra tulle for softness and added support making sure I had the stretch in the right direction. 

IMG_0820.jpg

At this point I have the put cups together and attached the clear elastic to the upper cup using a 3 step zigzag.  Already looking beautiful.

IMG_0821.jpg

I thought I would try a camera shot at the sewing machine.  The notches lined up perfectly when attaching the cups to the cradle.  I wouldn't normally use so many pins but with three notch marks and a new pattern i went a bit overboard!  

The next step is to attach the underwire casing along the cup-to-body seam.  For the casing I  use a microtex size 10 needle and put on my walking foot .

Before attaching the underarm elastic I check that the back strap fits into the fastener as it may require a little tweaking of the back band.

I  got so carried away with how well it was all going that  I almost forgot to put the stabiliser on the upper ring attachment point to stop it stretching out the elastic in this area.

IMG_0825.jpg

Next you make the straps.  I thought the rose gold findings looked much better than the beige.  

I didn't have any plain edge plush elastic for the body so I put the picot edge upwards so it didn't show below the lace.   As you are using the lace edge you apply the elastic in one pass using a 3 step zigzag the width of the elastic.  I am lucky as I my  machine has up to a  9mm stitch width so I could use a 7mm stitch which fit perfectly and would stop the elastic rolling.

All seams are enclosed so the inside looks as professional as the outside.  

IMG_0834.jpg