Darcey and Binky Blossom Add On - Can it get any better?

Having decided on a DIY Christmas I thought I would get on and make a start on the cards but then SewMyStyle announced November would be some of my favourite Evie la Luve patterns. So for the challenge I thought I would make one of the few versions that I had not done before. Even better I had a beautiful floral scuba kit to use. As with all Evie la Luve’s products the quality is amazing. How gorgeous is this?

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There is so much going on in the fabric. With so many colours to pick up it is was really difficult to choose what to do first - pink, peach, green, purple even a small amount of blue/mint. I felt quite dizzy with all the variations going around in my head. What I really wanted to do was a Blossom Add On set which is mainly stretch mesh. So I decided on the pink theme as I had some lovely stretch mesh from Costura Secret Shop.

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There are two styles for the Binky Blossom add on. Style 1 I had done so this time I would try Style 2. The Darcey Blossom add on is a front overlay with a longline option. I was going to try the longline version but I struggled to find continuous tape for the fastener in the right colour. The choice was made. Then on to cutting perfect scallops from the scuba.

I thought I would share how I got it to look so perfect. I used this technique on my previous make but did not go into any detail. I will introduce the Cricut Maker - the ultimate cutting machine. Bought on whim last Christmas, I cannot tell you how much it has changed my crafting life and now rivals my sewing machines for my affection. That said on to the technique. The free Cricut software it uses is called Design Space which works with SVG files. My idea was to upload the pattern pieces. You can upload photos and clean them up to create precise designs but this wasn’t producing a clean cut. Then after some research I found a free program called Inkscape which lets you upload a PDF and map it or, as I did, simply trace the shape.

I had to watch a few videos to pick up the basics that I needed to do this but it was well worth the 10 minutes. First I imported the page I needed and then I flipped the image 90 degrees as I found it easier to work this way around and zoomed in so the shape filled the screen.

Then I used the Bezier tool to go from point to point along the pattern. You can see the green line from node to node. Next you edit the path of the nodes to match the curves of the pattern. With the closeness of the lines you really have to zoom in to get this perfect.

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Once you are happy you delete the imported page and you are left with your pattern piece which you then save as an SVG file. For the pattern pieces that are on the fold you don’t join the nodes along the foldline but duplicate the shape, flip and join the open nodes to create one piece.

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The next step is to import the file into Cricut Design Space. For some reason you have to resize the design as they do not load at the correct size. You need to copy the measurements from Inkscape into Design Space. I also physically measured the dimensions on the paper pattern piece to double check. First I cut out in thick card to check the size. I am amazed at just how perfect a fit they are.

Then on to the actual fabric. Pink fabric mat out, rotary cutter in the machine and spandex setting for the cut. I used the card template to fussy cut the pieces so I could up the pink in the fabric. Perfect scallops and such beautiful colours.

Rather than pin or baste I use temporary spray adhesive to keep in place whilst I sew around the scallop edge. I did this really slowly so I could sew perfect curves as I was using dark blue thread and you would see this on the reverse side. I did all my pieces in one go so I didn’t need to keep changing the thread from blue to pink. I could incorporate the gusset into the front piece but I prefer an enclosed gusset. I did pattern match but it’s hard to see as the scuba doesn’t lie very flat.

To finish you return to the regular Binky pattern. I used the overlock stitch on my regular machine for the side seams. Good enough on a small seam.

Onto the Darcey. A little more fussy cutting and remembering to duplicate the side front piece and then mirror.

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The seams are rather bulky so I did grade them. Normally I would leave the seam allowance that is pressed against the main fabric the longest but this would mean you could see the dark fabric through the stretch mesh on the reverse so I did the other way around. With the front done I had to decide what fabric to use for the back pieces. I had noticed that because of the dark colour of this scuba it doesn’t look good when stretched too far. I also thought the stretch mesh would be too light even with two layers so I used a strong powernet for the lining.

I like the way the straps are enclosed in the bottom band. Then as usual I check the fit of the fastener before applying the fold over elastic to the top edge. I used my curved ruler to redraw a smooth line and then cut with sides together for a perfect match. The neckline elastic went in well - you just need to keep the elastic taut when you pivot at the centre front.

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I am just stunned at how pretty this set has turned out. The back is as good as the front. And I have developed a whole new skill set in the process.

Now what colours to pick out next? This just may be my #bpsewember Day 13: Struggle.

No Stopping Me Now - Orange Lingerie Lansdowne and Blossom4Binky

A rather selfish weekend of sewing but I have so many beautiful kits stacked up I just had to use one of them. So as we head into Autumn I thought I would use the strikingly colourful kit from CosturaSecretShop. Then I had to decide what to make with it. Orange Lingerie has just released the new Lansdowne bra pattern so that decision was made. Then Evie la Luve posted a fabulous Blossom set on Instagram and having bought the add on pattern as soon as it came out it was time to give it a try. Feeling quite smug for a number of reasons.

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I have made all the other Orange Lingerie patterns using the same size but as the Lansdowne is a partial band bra I thought I would make my usual paper cup and check. I really like the fact that the PDF pattern has a set of pieces for each size and that the seam allowances are marked. I just cut off the seam allowances and tape together along the cup seam. Looked fine.

The positioning of the lace is made easy as the seam allowances are marked and you can see exactly where the lace will join the bridge and where the strap ring will be attached. I lined with a nude bra tulle from my stash and used clear elastic to stabilise which I attached using a three step zigzag.

Then I had some decisions to make. The kit came with white sheer lining, nude picot elastic, blue strap elastic, black powernet and a black fastener. I hadn’t really picked up on the coral from the pictures I had seen of makes from the kit. I really love the contrast of the coral and the blue and remembered ordering some notions from Madalynne. Wow! So I swapped the elastics.

The outer cup requires stable fabric but as the scuba has some stretch in one direction I lined with the white sheer lining to stablise. This also meant I could enclose the cup seam for a neater finish. I decided against using the fabric for the band as thought this would be too much and used some navy powernet from my stash rather than the black from the kit. Rather than overlock the band to the side band, which creates bulk, I just did two rows of straight top stitching to keep in place. This is fine with scuba which doesn’t fray.

On to the band elastic and the usual dilemma when using different colour elastic and fabric. What colour thread to use? So I did the first pass in beige/nude which blends into the coral really well. However, the colour wasn’t good enough for the contrast on the navy powernet. So had the blue on top and kept the beige in the bobbin, sewing the second pass with the fabric right side up. Also, for a better colour match I used navy duoplex for the lining of the bridge. As with my previous partial band I attached the bands and bridge in one go, sewing from one side of the cup to to the other, to leave a guide for attaching the channeling. Looking pretty.

Applied the channeling as with the previous make. The photo shows how I mark the channeling once the first pass has been done. Once the second pass has been done I applied some iron on seam tape to the end of the elastic to provide stability for the ring attachment. Easier and less bulk than sew on.

I still couldn’t make my mind up about the strap elastic as the coral was a little narrow but looked so much better. I chose the coral and then switched to rose gold findings. Before applying the strap elastic I checked the fit of the fastener. As I had used slightly narrower elastic I had to shave some off the band to fit. As always I reshape the bands pinned together so exactly the same.

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Bra finished and on to the Blossom4Binky. The big issue I had was how I was going to cut out the scuba neatly. Then I had a brain wave. I would see if my Cricut Maker could cut the fabric. No setting for scuba but thought I would try the spandex setting. I made a little design with half circles and watched carefully as the rotary blade cut a perfect circle. So next it was how to get the design into Circut Design Space. I played around taking pictures of the pattern piece, uploading and trying to clean up. Unfortunately this was not good enough as this didn’t give clean edges. So I spent a very worthwhile Saturday morning googling and came up with a free package called Inkscape. I opened the PDF in the program and basically traced using the Bezier pen. You make straight lines from point to point and then shape the curves. Amazing, within a short while I had an SVG file for the Cricut. When I opened in Cricut I had to resize as some SVGs do not import the correct size. Easily done and a perfect cut!

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For the main front I used a stretch mesh I bought in the same order from CosturaSecretShop. I used temporary spray adhesive to keep in place whilst I sewed very carefully around the scalloped edge. It was really hard to see the edge in places but I went really slow. I then enclosed the front seam between the gusset and gusset lining. I even pattern matched the gusset so well you can’t see the join in the picture.

I used the lace for the back. The Binky has two options - full back and half back. The lace wasn’t quite wide enough for the full back. So to make life easier I just used a scrap of fabric behind the lace and used a small zigzag stitch along the scalloped edge. Then I trimmed the fabric back to the stitching. Just the elastic to apply. I didn’t have enough coral for both waist and leg so used the coral on the waist and the blue on the leg.

I know the Binky fits well but this Blossom version is gorgeous. It just looks fantastic with the Lansdowne. The fit and shape of this bra is all I expected from Orange Lingerie. With all the new skills where do I go next!

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