Latte at Midnight - Evie la Luve pattern release

Inspired by Emerald Erin's Latte at Midnight blog I bought the tulle bra kit and matching bamboo fabric and latte elastic to make a set.  Been busy at work so only just got around to deciding what to make.

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The bra pattern choice was easy.  I love the Orange Lingerie Marlborough and thought the bra tulle would look good in this style.   So what to make for the set?  I was going to draft my own pattern along the lines of Erin's blog but then I saw on Tailormadeshop's Instagram that Evie la Luve had introduced a new pattern called the Binky.  A big fan I bought both this pattern and her other new release - the Darcey soft bra.  I also realised I hadn't been following her on Instagram!  A quick tap of a button - I don't want to miss any more pattern releases.

Initially I wasn't going to use lace as the kit didn't come with any but when I saw the Binky pattern I thought I would like to get some in there.  I only had scraps of lace from previous kits and even then the colour was more navy than the midnight.  Rummaging around in my lace bag I came across a small piece that had come with my very first bra kit.  It was a test make and I thought a waste of lace.  Not enough for the lace back so thought I would try for the half lace back.  

Such a tight squeeze I ended up photocopying the lace and placing the actual lace on white paper so I could see.  Dark blue on green is not easy.  I thought it best to get the upper cups to match.  Not quite enough lace so the back isn't quite symmetrical but close enough not to be noticeable.  The next big dilemma was the fold over elastic.  I had only ordered plush elastic.  Back to the stash. I had the perfect colour that I had got in a batch from Minerva in an attempt to always have a stock of my most used colours.  Had two metres when the pattern requirements was for 3 metres.  A quick check against the pattern pieces and it would be a close call!  

The Marlborough has been covered so often that just adding a few comments about this particular construction.  I used temporary adhesive to attach the bra tulle to the lace cup.  I prefer to use 1/4" clear elastic, to stabilise the upper cup just under the scallops, using a three step zigzag the width of the elastic.  This seems to work better for me than normal colour matched elastic.  I used two layers of tulle so I could enclose the cup seams.  After I topstitched in place I trimmed the seams back to the stitching so it would look neater from the right side.  I normally wouldn't overlock edges but I wanted to cover the latte powernet seam allowance.  After I had done all I could in the dark blue thread I moved on to the Binky as I didn't want to keep changing thread.

The bamboo knit is so soft and silky but it does mean it can be very stretchy and a little awkward to work with.  I always start sewing with some Stitch N Tear and go slowly using a stretch stitch and a bamboo stiletto to feed the layers evenly.  

I combined style 3 and 4 so had to read the instructions carefully to make sure I got in the right order!

I marked out the point I had to pivot and it came out pretty good with back seam in the right place.  I enclosed the front between the gusset and gusset lining and then basted the gusset pieces using a silk thread which pulls out easily and without leaving a mark.  On to the fold over elastic and a change of thread.  I normally leave a tail of elastic at each end as I find it easy to start and stop but with such a small margin I decided not to.  Makes life a little more difficult but nothing like running out of elastic.

Then I applied the elastic to the front and side front pattern pieces, basted the front sides to the front before appling the elastic to leg openings.  Then back to bra to use the latte thread for the straps.

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 I always dab glue stick on both sides of strap elastic to keep it in place whilst sewing and I tend to use my walking foot.  Before I attach the strap to the back I ensure that it fits neatly into the fastener.  The back was a little wide so I mark where it needs to be, redraw a smooth line to blend, pin both sides together and then cut to ensure the backs match.  I also use the stick glue on the inside of the fasteners.

Back to blue thread for the gusset and sides and then I overlock.  I finished the bra by attaching the ring to the front, again using the stick glue to keep in place.

Just the waist elastic to do - with an 1" of elastic over.  So glad I was careful.  I wasn't looking forward to attaching, especially in the gap,  but I took my time and it was fine.

Looking gorgeous all over.  I made my usual Evie la Luve size in the Binky and a perfect fit sitting exactly where they are supposed to.  It goes without saying the Marlborough is a sensational fit.  I never stopped being amazed at what I can produce!

Lingerie Weekend - Tailor Made Order Arrived

I waited in eager anticipation for my order from the Tailor Made Shop to arrive which included the Orange Lingerie Marborough bra kit.  I order as soon as Ying posts new kits on Instagram as they seem to get snapped up in minutes.   I have been so busy so had to wait until weekend to start making.  Good job it was cold and wet all weekend!

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There wasn't a bra and underwear kit available but from previous experience there is always enough to make something to match the bra.  I was not disappointed!  Plenty of the charmeuse and probably enough lace.  I had also ordered a pink findings kit, blush stretch mesh, wires and various other bits.

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As I wanted to make a matching set I decided not to use the peach findings and powernet that came with the kit and used blush from my stash.  Then I had to decide what underwear patterns I could get out of the fabric I had.  The first issue was that the charmeuse is a woven and most of my patterns call for stretch.  Then I didn't have a huge amount of lace.  So I got out my lace patterns.  I went for the Ohhlulu's Claudia as I could just scrape out my size and I had enough fabric to cut the front panel on the bias.  As I had just bought the blush stretch mesh I thought I would make up the Montgomery Brief which is designed to match the Marborough Bra pattern.  

I have made all three before and had the pattern pieces ready.  The bra went together beautifully but I was not too fond of the charmeuse as it does fray quickly.  The construction process allows you to enclose all seams between the fabric and the non-stretch lining.  Before topstitching each seam I did have to tidy up the fabric in the seam allowance.  I also line the lace as well as attaching narrow elastic as it gives much better support.  Although the hook and eye should fit I always check before attaching the strap.  I had to shave a little off the back band.  When making and attaching the strap I switch to my walking foot.  I also use a water soluble glue stick to keep the strap in place whilst I sew.  This way I always get perfectly aligned straps.  I had to cut down my wires which  I then re seal with some plastic tubing and use a heat gun to shrink wrap around the end.  A bit of fray check on the wire casing and I was done.

The Montgomery brief is such a quick and satisfying make.  The pattern is for a lace front panel.  Although online shows a picture with a fabric front details are not included in the pattern but there is great blog on how to make the adjustment.. As my plush elastic colour wasn't just right for me I used some blush FOE instead of using the plush along the whole of the waist.  

Then onto the Claudia Panties.  Another great fitting pattern for me and lots of options.  I had to squeeze the lace panels out so couldn't match up but you don't really notice because of the design.  I chose some pretty decorative elastic for the leg line in white which I thought would look better against the white gusset lining than the multi colour fabric.  Also, although I do have a cover stitch machine, I was worried about the fabric fraying on such a narrow seam.  The blush FOE was perfect to finish.  The best ever advice from Norma, Orange Lingerie, is to steam you garment when finished as this relaxes the elastic after the sewing process.  It makes a huge difference.

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Thought I would finish with a picture of the back of the briefs and the inside of the bra.  Just so pretty!

 

 

 

 

Delivery from Emerald Erin

Since I first started making lingerie I have struggled to source supplies here in the UK.  There are a small number of suppliers who I use but they don't always have the range I need to complete a particular project.  Until now I have sourced mostly from B-Wear in Sweden, who are the European distributor for Bra Makers Supply in Canada.  Scouring the internet for patterns and ideas for swimwear I recently came across the Emerald Erin blog and Etsy shop and bought swimwear fabric, lining and elastic as well a grey bamboo knit and black/blush bra kit. All this was in a custom order from Canada.  The items arrived promptly, were beautifully wrapped and looked gorgeous. This is what I made!

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I apologise for both my model who is a little smaller than me and my photography skills.  I can only get better.  I am also trying to source a lingerie dress form in my size!

The swimming costume was a bit of a journey.  I purchased the Beverly Johnson Craftsy class (I now have the complete set) and bought some practice fabric, sold by weight, from Abakhan in the UK.  The first pattern I tried was Beverly's Denise pattern as she uses this in the class.  A good basic pattern but I was looking for something more sporty.  Then I moved onto Jalie 3134 which looked a little too sporty.  The one I decided to make up in my lovely fabric was Jalie 3350.  I chose the twisted front, the open back and adjustable straps.  The front is lined with pockets for optional swim cups.  The pattern requires a little concentration to get the twist right but looks and fits beautiful.  It stayed put during swimming and washed well.

Moving on to the black and blush bra kit which I bought because the colours  looked beautiful, I had then to decide what bra to make with it.  Having read good reviews  I decided to try the Marlborough bra pattern from Orange Lingerie.  I already have both the Boylston and Fenway patterns which have clear and concise instructions.  I usually make a trial bra in any new pattern but after mocking up in paper I decided to use the size I made in the Fenway,  My lace didn't have a scalloped edge so I used fold over elastic instead.  I lined all pieces with bra tulle and also added cut and sew foam to the power bar enclosing it in the side and bottom seam only (having seen this on a RTW bra).  I was amazed at the fit and it looks stunning.

Then I had a small amount of non stretch lace left so off I went to look for a panties (or whatever item specific term I should use) pattern that could accommodate this.  My search brought me to Ohhh Lulu and the Grace pattern.  The lace front and back panel are supposed to be cut on the bias to give the stretch but I didn't have enough fabric to do this so the fit is a little snug.  Again I lined the lace.  For the sides I used stretch mesh which was a little awkward to hem .  Overall I think this is the prettiest and best fitting set I have made. A bargain for the cost of the bra kit.

The metre of bamboo I bought to see how soft it was and once again I had to decide what to do with it.  The fabric is really soft and lovely to touch so I decided to make a soft bra - something I hadn't done for myself before.  Having just bought the Grace pattern I remembered the Romy soft bra pattern.  There is no cup size just XS to XXL.  I made the medium and  had to cut a little off the back to get a snug fit.  I used black powernet for the back band as the fabric was a little too stretchy for proper support.  Again I was amazed how great it looked.  The only issue for me was that the band elastic was not quite wide/strong enough but it was all I had.  

To complement the look I used the Claudia pattern in the lace version, again in medium.  Another amazing fit.  

 

With more material over I made the Watson bikini in a medium which came out a little on the large side but I think some of this is the stretch of the fabric. I also made my husband the trunk version of Jalie 3242.  Still more left but undecided what to do with it.  Another day.