Lace Perfection - Courtesy of Evie la Luve and Braugust2018

Been so busy with holiday and then work that I have not had chance to make anything with the beautiful kit I won for the #Braugust2018 Evie la Luve Mix and Match day. Having recently made the Darcey and Binky with this lace I wanted to try something different. So off I went and I think the result is amazing!

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The lace is so pretty and feminine so I wanted to find a pattern that could do it justice. Having made the Darcey bralette I looked around for a bra pattern. Evie la Luve had posted a few pictures on Instagram of some bra ideas she had been playing around with but said the pattern wouldn’t be out for a while. So I turned to my pattern stash. The Madalynne X Simplicity 8436 would be perfect.

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So I cut out my normal size and thought I would get a bit clever and try to make some foam pads as in the Madalynne X Simplicity 8624. I traced off the pattern and then used the foam pieces of the 8624 to get the shape. The dart was slightly longer on the 8436 so I made the curve at the point of the dart. Then I realised two things. One this was going to be too small and, second, the lace is so open it needed to be lined for support.

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I went up a cup size and cut out the pieces again. This time with lining. Choosing the lining was difficult. I really needed to use a strong powernet for support but the colours I had would just spoil the pretty look I was going for so went with the perfect colour, although a little lightweight. The idea is to spray baste the lace and lining in one go and then cut out. When using the scalloped edge of lace it is not always possible to work with the fabric in its greatest direction of stretch but with the lining you need to think which way you want to place this. I was using a powernet which has a definite direction of stretch so I used two separate pieces of lining in different directions for the cups and band. The centre front I lined with sheer lining for stability. As it looked so pretty as this point I decided not to use the foam inserts.

For this pattern I couldn’t find any tutorials or sew along on Madalynne’s website so went along with the printed pattern instructions. In a rush to get finished I only skim read. The darts and neckline elastic are first. Both the lace and fabric are hard to mark so used my pink chaco liner. I have three of these - white, yellow and pink. The yellow and pink can stain so I use with care on the wrong side. I like to trace the line of the dart to make sure they are perfectly matched.

Then I applied clear elastic to the scalloped edge of the cup. I prefer clear elastic with such a sheer lace. Even with a prefect colour match you could still see this through the lace. The instructions use a normal zigzag but I prefer to use a three step zigzag the width of the elastic as this seems to eliminate any tunnelling.

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Then you attach the cups to centre front followed by the bands. I pin everything in place and then sew from one end of the cup to the other. This then leaves a line of sewing between the band and front (marked by the arrows) that you can use as a guide when applying the channeling. I applied the channeling slightly different to the pattern. I don’t pre-cut to the length of the cup but I apply directly along the line of stitching keeping taut as I do and leaving a tab at either end. I don’t start stitching for about 1/2” from the underarm seam. I use my Stitch in the Ditch foot to stitch as close to possible to the seam line. Then I fold up over the cup stitch the other side the same distance from the edge. The pattern has you start the channeling 3/8” (which is the the width of the elastic) away from the underarm

The next step is to apply the plush elastic to the upper edge. At this point I check the fit of the fastener. If too wide I can shape the band. If too narrow I can position the elastic further off the edge. Then I realised the pattern didn’t include any band elastic. Always read the instructions in full before starting! As my lace and powernet were so lightweight I would definitely need some extra support. This should have been applied to the band before it was attached to the cup. Rather than undo everything I applied 1/2”plush elastic along the edge with the picot edge upwards. When I got as far a I could, I stopped and cut round the cup. With my zipper foot on I sewed down this curved section. Then I applied fray check to the edge. Looked fine and so on to the top elastic.

As with other Simplicity patterns all the seam allowances are 1/4”. You need to to extend the elastic 1/8” over the edge. With the previous make I marked the 1/4” but this time I just went with my eye. Again I didn’t cut the elastic. I keep taut as I am applying, stretching more over the armpit area to give a snug fit. Now I fix the channeling at the underarm. I fold over the elastic and mark where this sits on the channeling. I then cut the channeling to sit between the the first pass and the bottom of the elastic. I then do the second pass with a three step zigzag enclosing the channeling.

With the fastener on, the straps made and attached to the front I try on and check the length and placement. I took about 3” off the strap as otherwise it would need tightening all the way back down to the band. The pattern comes with an underwear pattern but I wanted an all lace look so went to my favourite Evie la Luve Bella pattern. This is a great pattern if your lace isn’t that deep. Just enough lace left to match sides. Whipped these up in no time. Such an impressive make in such a short time.

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The prize not only included the kit but also the Lingerie Project Book and any two PDF patterns. As I already have most of the patterns I went for the Chloe thong and the Xo bra. The Xo is not a lace bra so I put that aside for another day and went on to make the thong.

I made some minor modifications to the pattern to make best use of the lace. I wanted to make the front piece and gusset all in one. This would mean I couldn’t enclose the lining at the front but it was the look I was after. So I printed another gusset and cut in half. I marked the 1/4” seam allowance on the front edge and I placed the gusset edge along the line, eliminating the seam allowance.

The placement of the lace was determined by its width. This lace has a mirrored pattern so I could fold in half. I placed the bottom edge of the pattern piece at the low point of the scallop on the bottom edge and cut up around the leg until it came off the lace at the top edge. I then used spray adhesive to hold in place whilst I used a small zigzag to attach along the scallop. Then finished in the normal way. Another triumph.

I always like to finish with a picture of the reverse side. So amazingly pretty for an afternoons work.

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Emerald Erin Pattern Release

I first came across Emerald Erin when I started making lingerie last year.  Sourcing supplies was difficult from here in the UK so I spread the net and tried out a whole range of fabrics and findings for both lingerie and swimwear from her shop.  I was hooked!  So when she released her first patterns I wanted to be one of the first to make.

So we have the Jordy Bralette and the Tuesday Boyshort.  

The Jordy comes with three options - lace overlay, fabric or foam lined version.  The Tuesday has a choice of either classic centre front seam or solid front and you can use either fold over or plush elastic on both versions.  I immediately ordered kits in both as well as a number of other items!

As usual I couldn't wait for the order to get here from Canada so I thought I would have a practice to get the size right.  

 

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I thought I would try both versions of the Tuesday using fold over on one and plush on the other.  The pattern pieces come with the seam allowances marked so if you use the fold over elastic you need to cut this off.  I did highlight this on the pattern piece for next time.

You can just serge the seams but with curves and 1/4 inch seams I always sew the seam first with a stretch stitch.  I start with some stitch and tear when I sew stretch fabric to stop it being dragged into the machine.

The classic front is straight forward sew with the gusset enclosed in the side seams only.  The solid front has an enclosed gusset by using the "burrito" method.

Here are the two versions before the elastic went on.  The size was spot on although my personal preference is the solid front.

So on to the Jordy.  I started with the foam version and made paper versions to get an idea of the size.

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This is a really quick make especially as I used straps cut off from another bra.  Again if you are using fold elastic you need to remember to cut off the seam allowance. 

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I prefer to draw around the foam and then cut out  The foam cup has no seam allowance but you butt the edges together and I sew using a zigzag of  length 4 and width 1 (as per Beverly Johnson)  Perfect match!

You baste the fabric to the foam and attach the fold over elastic before attaching to the band.  I cut the band elastic to the size up just in case.  I drew a line in chalk along the seam allowance to ensure the cups were straight and checked they were equal distance from the centre to ensure neither had stretched out of place.  I attached the straps at the front and pinned at the back so I could gauge the size of the back band,  Once I was happy with bank band I attached the hook and eye fastener.  With the fastener on I checked the straps again before sewing them to the back band.  For straps I always like to use a fabric glue pen to keep in place whilst I sew.   

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One to the next version with is the lace overlay.  Used items from my stash mostly from leftovers from my Tailor Made kits,  Such good value.  The bralette looks great with the lace Bella pattern from Evie La Luve.  Too much in a hurry to take pictures but will get some when I make the kit,  Just love it when testers are good enough to wear.

The Berkeley Kit from Tailor Made

My order from the Tailor Made shop shipped promptly.   However, when I opened up the parcel I realised I had been so eager to place my order before they ran out I forgot to change the wire size. I now have four size 30 wires - there must be somebody there that can use them!

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Having decided to make the navy first, the other is raspberry/pale pink, my first thought was to check whether there was enough lace to a make a set.  Oh yes!  My go to pattern for all lace is the Bella from Evie la Luve.  The website describes them as a low cut waist and sheer design

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I just had to take a picture of everything cut out.  I saw a man's face but the other half thought it looked like an owl.  

I made the panties first because I had had a long day and didn't want to start the bra.  You can just serge all the seams but on curves, as in the back seam, I sew with a stretch stitch first.

Not having any navy fold over elastic (foe) I  went for the red.  I  sometimes have issues with foe as I think I over stretch.  A great tip from Norma at Orange Lingerie is to steam the finished garment to relax the elastic from the sewing process.  Works every time.  Although with this lace this wasn't too much of an issue.

The kits comes with two linings.  A 15-denier tricot for  more give and a softer shape and a non-stretch tricot for more support. For the first bra I made I used non-stretch except for the upper cups where I used bra tulle.  I was a little worried as the non-stretch was black not navy.  So for the upper and lower cups I used the 15-denier and the non-stretch for the bridge and power bar although  I  toyed with the idea using a non-stretch red.  However, as the black is placed behind lined lace it is hard to tell it is black.  

This bra goes together so well I had it finished within a few hours.  I did remember to stabilise the elastic at the ring attachment point.  You can use the non-stretch tricot but I used fusible non-stretch stay tape.  

I just need to finish off with a red bow to match the foe elastic. Job done.