Madalynne Simplicity X Kits 8229 and 8228 - So Beautiful

In between other projects I have been working my way through the Madalynne Simplicity pattern bundle waiting for the right fabric to come along. I was just so excited when Madalynne launched the latest batch of kits which included this beautiful white lace for the 8229 bra with a matching underwear kit for the 8228. Normally I would get a set out of a bra kit but with the underwear kit I was able to make three very different styles to match the bra.

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The kits come in a gorgeous presentation box that is reusable. What was really sweet was that Madalynne had added a wire size either side of the one I asked for - fortunate given I needed the larger one! I first looked to see how much fabric was included with each kit so I could determine if I could get more than one set out. The bra kit only really contains enough to make the bra but the underwear kit was very generous.

There is a set of tissue pattern pieces for each band size which includes all the cup sizes. I prefer to photocopy and then cut the size I want from the copy. The kit is for a foam lined bra but the pattern does not include the any instructions to make the bra this way. Having made a number of foam bras recently I made a further copy of the cup pieces to adjust for foam. I took the cup seam allowance from each piece. You can also take off the arm edge to reduce bulk when folding over the plush elastic but I have found it looks better if this is left. There is a video tutorial on the site on how to cover the upper edge which includes instructions on how to make the foam cup.

Most bra patterns include seam allowances for the width of elastic to be used at each edge. However, the Simplicity patterns use 1/4” so the instructions have you position the elastic 1/8” or whatever the difference is between 1/4” and elastic width off the edge of the elastic. In the past I have marked the line on the fabric so it is even. This time I have added the extra to my pattern pieces so that I can line up the elastic with edge of the fabric to make life easier. So I adjusted both the bottom of the frame and band by 3/8” to accommodate the elastic in the kit. The armhole elastic in the kit is 1/4” so no adjustment needed.

The frame is cut in one from a layer of the white stretch mesh and the dot mesh held together with temporary adhesive spray. This is still really stretchy so I left on the paper I used to cover the mat for spraying and cut through the paper as well. This gives a really clean cut and the fabric stays in place as it is slightly tacky from the spray. I played around with the lace pieces to find where I wanted the centre join. Elastic is applied to centre upper edge of the frame. I changed out the nude provided for white.

The foam cups went together well. I covered the top edge with a sheer cup lining following the video tutorial as I feel it adds a really delicate touch to the finish. I covered with lace cups and basted in place. Then I attached to the very stretchy frame before moving on to the back bands. I enclosed the frame between the two layers of mesh and powernet to give extra support and a clean finish,

The bra was taking shape and already looking beautiful. I applied the plush elastic before applying white chaneling rather than the nude provided. Then onto the straps. The kit comes with some narrow strap elastic to make the pretty version shown on the website. However, this version is not covered in the pattern and I couldn’t find any links to make the strap this way. So it required a little guesswork as to the placement and length of elastic to use and playing around a little but looks fabulous. Then on to the underwear kit.

I have used this pattern before so I had the pieces traced off and ready to use. Again two layers of mesh are put together. Then my sewing woes started when attaching the lace sides to the centre front and back. The mesh just didn’t like me. In the end I stitched with tearaway stabiliser underneath. A little press and all sorted.

I used the elastic guides provided as this worked well last time. However, I did overlap first and then attach in the round using the quarter method as I find I get a more even distribution.

A quick make I moved on to the Ohhh Lulu Claudia hipster, a contrast to the high waisted 8228. Another versatile pattern using any combination of lace and fabric. I made a lace back with the front using the two layer mesh combination. Then I went off piste and cut a lace gusset (which I didn’t need) out of one of my back panels! Luckily just got another back panel from the left over lace. You join the back pieces and then enclose between the front panel and gusset lining, remembering there should be a gap for the leg elastic to fold over.

I took my time to ensure all the edges matched up perfectly. So worth the effort for such a perfect finish. I finished the waist with some, what I would call, “off white” fold over elastic.

That was going to be it, but as I tidied up I thought there must be enough to squeeze something else out. I thought about incorporating the narrow strap elastic to match the bra. I have another Ohhh Lulu pattern, the Nora, which has a version with adjustable sides that I thought I could use.

This pattern uses fold over elastic for the legs so I had to add on the width of my plush elastic. I just used my curved ruler which has a 1/4” line to fit the line of the pattern and cut around this for both the front and back pieces as well as the gusset whilst the spray was still tacky to stop the fabric moving. Then I got the widest piece of elastic left and used temporary spray adhesive to place over the front piece as high as possible and then cut around the leg to match the front piece. Unbelievably, the gusset piece I had mistakenly cut out of lace was a perfect for this gusset. Just a little trimming needed. Both front and back gusset seams are enclosed before applying the elastic.

To finish I placed two strands of the narrow elastic level with the edge of the side front right side up. I used a small straight stitch to attach the elastic along the 1/2 seam allowance. I then folded the seam allowance back and using a small zigzag I stitched the seam allowance down covering the raw edge. You can do this seam enclosing the elastic by turning it back on itself but it can be bulky. I wasn’t going to make adjustable sides so I measured the adjusted width of elastic on my previous makes, added the seam allowance and attached to the back using the same method. Another perfect match.

And now for a rest - well onto my Sew Over It knit kit!

Lingerie Weekend - Tailor Made Order Arrived

I waited in eager anticipation for my order from the Tailor Made Shop to arrive which included the Orange Lingerie Marborough bra kit.  I order as soon as Ying posts new kits on Instagram as they seem to get snapped up in minutes.   I have been so busy so had to wait until weekend to start making.  Good job it was cold and wet all weekend!

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There wasn't a bra and underwear kit available but from previous experience there is always enough to make something to match the bra.  I was not disappointed!  Plenty of the charmeuse and probably enough lace.  I had also ordered a pink findings kit, blush stretch mesh, wires and various other bits.

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As I wanted to make a matching set I decided not to use the peach findings and powernet that came with the kit and used blush from my stash.  Then I had to decide what underwear patterns I could get out of the fabric I had.  The first issue was that the charmeuse is a woven and most of my patterns call for stretch.  Then I didn't have a huge amount of lace.  So I got out my lace patterns.  I went for the Ohhlulu's Claudia as I could just scrape out my size and I had enough fabric to cut the front panel on the bias.  As I had just bought the blush stretch mesh I thought I would make up the Montgomery Brief which is designed to match the Marborough Bra pattern.  

I have made all three before and had the pattern pieces ready.  The bra went together beautifully but I was not too fond of the charmeuse as it does fray quickly.  The construction process allows you to enclose all seams between the fabric and the non-stretch lining.  Before topstitching each seam I did have to tidy up the fabric in the seam allowance.  I also line the lace as well as attaching narrow elastic as it gives much better support.  Although the hook and eye should fit I always check before attaching the strap.  I had to shave a little off the back band.  When making and attaching the strap I switch to my walking foot.  I also use a water soluble glue stick to keep the strap in place whilst I sew.  This way I always get perfectly aligned straps.  I had to cut down my wires which  I then re seal with some plastic tubing and use a heat gun to shrink wrap around the end.  A bit of fray check on the wire casing and I was done.

The Montgomery brief is such a quick and satisfying make.  The pattern is for a lace front panel.  Although online shows a picture with a fabric front details are not included in the pattern but there is great blog on how to make the adjustment.. As my plush elastic colour wasn't just right for me I used some blush FOE instead of using the plush along the whole of the waist.  

Then onto the Claudia Panties.  Another great fitting pattern for me and lots of options.  I had to squeeze the lace panels out so couldn't match up but you don't really notice because of the design.  I chose some pretty decorative elastic for the leg line in white which I thought would look better against the white gusset lining than the multi colour fabric.  Also, although I do have a cover stitch machine, I was worried about the fabric fraying on such a narrow seam.  The blush FOE was perfect to finish.  The best ever advice from Norma, Orange Lingerie, is to steam you garment when finished as this relaxes the elastic after the sewing process.  It makes a huge difference.

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Thought I would finish with a picture of the back of the briefs and the inside of the bra.  Just so pretty!

 

 

 

 

Delivery from Emerald Erin

Since I first started making lingerie I have struggled to source supplies here in the UK.  There are a small number of suppliers who I use but they don't always have the range I need to complete a particular project.  Until now I have sourced mostly from B-Wear in Sweden, who are the European distributor for Bra Makers Supply in Canada.  Scouring the internet for patterns and ideas for swimwear I recently came across the Emerald Erin blog and Etsy shop and bought swimwear fabric, lining and elastic as well a grey bamboo knit and black/blush bra kit. All this was in a custom order from Canada.  The items arrived promptly, were beautifully wrapped and looked gorgeous. This is what I made!

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I apologise for both my model who is a little smaller than me and my photography skills.  I can only get better.  I am also trying to source a lingerie dress form in my size!

The swimming costume was a bit of a journey.  I purchased the Beverly Johnson Craftsy class (I now have the complete set) and bought some practice fabric, sold by weight, from Abakhan in the UK.  The first pattern I tried was Beverly's Denise pattern as she uses this in the class.  A good basic pattern but I was looking for something more sporty.  Then I moved onto Jalie 3134 which looked a little too sporty.  The one I decided to make up in my lovely fabric was Jalie 3350.  I chose the twisted front, the open back and adjustable straps.  The front is lined with pockets for optional swim cups.  The pattern requires a little concentration to get the twist right but looks and fits beautiful.  It stayed put during swimming and washed well.

Moving on to the black and blush bra kit which I bought because the colours  looked beautiful, I had then to decide what bra to make with it.  Having read good reviews  I decided to try the Marlborough bra pattern from Orange Lingerie.  I already have both the Boylston and Fenway patterns which have clear and concise instructions.  I usually make a trial bra in any new pattern but after mocking up in paper I decided to use the size I made in the Fenway,  My lace didn't have a scalloped edge so I used fold over elastic instead.  I lined all pieces with bra tulle and also added cut and sew foam to the power bar enclosing it in the side and bottom seam only (having seen this on a RTW bra).  I was amazed at the fit and it looks stunning.

Then I had a small amount of non stretch lace left so off I went to look for a panties (or whatever item specific term I should use) pattern that could accommodate this.  My search brought me to Ohhh Lulu and the Grace pattern.  The lace front and back panel are supposed to be cut on the bias to give the stretch but I didn't have enough fabric to do this so the fit is a little snug.  Again I lined the lace.  For the sides I used stretch mesh which was a little awkward to hem .  Overall I think this is the prettiest and best fitting set I have made. A bargain for the cost of the bra kit.

The metre of bamboo I bought to see how soft it was and once again I had to decide what to do with it.  The fabric is really soft and lovely to touch so I decided to make a soft bra - something I hadn't done for myself before.  Having just bought the Grace pattern I remembered the Romy soft bra pattern.  There is no cup size just XS to XXL.  I made the medium and  had to cut a little off the back to get a snug fit.  I used black powernet for the back band as the fabric was a little too stretchy for proper support.  Again I was amazed how great it looked.  The only issue for me was that the band elastic was not quite wide/strong enough but it was all I had.  

To complement the look I used the Claudia pattern in the lace version, again in medium.  Another amazing fit.  

 

With more material over I made the Watson bikini in a medium which came out a little on the large side but I think some of this is the stretch of the fabric. I also made my husband the trunk version of Jalie 3242.  Still more left but undecided what to do with it.  Another day.