Emerald Erin Jordy Bralette - Lace overlay version

Just a quick look at the making of the lace overlay version of the Jordy Bralette along with the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief.

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This time I used the lovely Emerald Erin kit.  Everything I have ordered from the website has been great quality. 

What I like about the pattern is that seam allowances are marked which is particularly helpful when cutting out lace.  As you can see from the second picture I have the point at which the lace cups meet at the low point of the scallop edge.  I then flip over and match for the other side.  I have also placed white paper under the lace so I can actually see the pattern and also helps with a clean cut.  

There was enough of the bra tulle to line the cups.  So for the inner cups I used temporary spray adhesive to keep the lace, tulle and tulle lining in place.  For the outer cup I used the spray to keep the lace and tulle in place.  You can use either a small zigzag or straight stitch along the scallop edge of the lace to attach to tulle.  Then I sandwiched the inner cup between the outer cup and lining.  Perfectly matched cups!

The fold over elastic is then applied to the inner cup first, then the outer cup leaving a tail to attach straps.  I also used some stabilising tape to the tail.  The cups are then attached to the band.  I like to draw in the line along which I can pin the cups.  I sew along the bottom of the cup first on the wrong side and then flip over and sew along the top of the band so all perfectly straight lines. I then trim any excess back to the zigzag.  I did think about overlocking the bottom of the cup but didn't want to create any uncomfortable bulk.

Just the straps left to do,  I like to use a glue pen to keep the straps in place as I sew. 

As I always like to make a set so I went for the Montgomery brief as only a small amount of lace. I used the tulle to line the lace as it does have stretch in one direction.  I attach the clear elastic along the scallop edge with a three step zigzag.  

Back and front prepared, leg elastic added and nearly there.  Just the side seams to finish.

Emerald Erin Pattern Release

I first came across Emerald Erin when I started making lingerie last year.  Sourcing supplies was difficult from here in the UK so I spread the net and tried out a whole range of fabrics and findings for both lingerie and swimwear from her shop.  I was hooked!  So when she released her first patterns I wanted to be one of the first to make.

So we have the Jordy Bralette and the Tuesday Boyshort.  

The Jordy comes with three options - lace overlay, fabric or foam lined version.  The Tuesday has a choice of either classic centre front seam or solid front and you can use either fold over or plush elastic on both versions.  I immediately ordered kits in both as well as a number of other items!

As usual I couldn't wait for the order to get here from Canada so I thought I would have a practice to get the size right.  

 

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I thought I would try both versions of the Tuesday using fold over on one and plush on the other.  The pattern pieces come with the seam allowances marked so if you use the fold over elastic you need to cut this off.  I did highlight this on the pattern piece for next time.

You can just serge the seams but with curves and 1/4 inch seams I always sew the seam first with a stretch stitch.  I start with some stitch and tear when I sew stretch fabric to stop it being dragged into the machine.

The classic front is straight forward sew with the gusset enclosed in the side seams only.  The solid front has an enclosed gusset by using the "burrito" method.

Here are the two versions before the elastic went on.  The size was spot on although my personal preference is the solid front.

So on to the Jordy.  I started with the foam version and made paper versions to get an idea of the size.

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This is a really quick make especially as I used straps cut off from another bra.  Again if you are using fold elastic you need to remember to cut off the seam allowance. 

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I prefer to draw around the foam and then cut out  The foam cup has no seam allowance but you butt the edges together and I sew using a zigzag of  length 4 and width 1 (as per Beverly Johnson)  Perfect match!

You baste the fabric to the foam and attach the fold over elastic before attaching to the band.  I cut the band elastic to the size up just in case.  I drew a line in chalk along the seam allowance to ensure the cups were straight and checked they were equal distance from the centre to ensure neither had stretched out of place.  I attached the straps at the front and pinned at the back so I could gauge the size of the back band,  Once I was happy with bank band I attached the hook and eye fastener.  With the fastener on I checked the straps again before sewing them to the back band.  For straps I always like to use a fabric glue pen to keep in place whilst I sew.   

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One to the next version with is the lace overlay.  Used items from my stash mostly from leftovers from my Tailor Made kits,  Such good value.  The bralette looks great with the lace Bella pattern from Evie La Luve.  Too much in a hurry to take pictures but will get some when I make the kit,  Just love it when testers are good enough to wear.