Madalynne Simplicity X Kits 8229 and 8228 - So Beautiful

In between other projects I have been working my way through the Madalynne Simplicity pattern bundle waiting for the right fabric to come along. I was just so excited when Madalynne launched the latest batch of kits which included this beautiful white lace for the 8229 bra with a matching underwear kit for the 8228. Normally I would get a set out of a bra kit but with the underwear kit I was able to make three very different styles to match the bra.

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The kits come in a gorgeous presentation box that is reusable. What was really sweet was that Madalynne had added a wire size either side of the one I asked for - fortunate given I needed the larger one! I first looked to see how much fabric was included with each kit so I could determine if I could get more than one set out. The bra kit only really contains enough to make the bra but the underwear kit was very generous.

There is a set of tissue pattern pieces for each band size which includes all the cup sizes. I prefer to photocopy and then cut the size I want from the copy. The kit is for a foam lined bra but the pattern does not include the any instructions to make the bra this way. Having made a number of foam bras recently I made a further copy of the cup pieces to adjust for foam. I took the cup seam allowance from each piece. You can also take off the arm edge to reduce bulk when folding over the plush elastic but I have found it looks better if this is left. There is a video tutorial on the site on how to cover the upper edge which includes instructions on how to make the foam cup.

Most bra patterns include seam allowances for the width of elastic to be used at each edge. However, the Simplicity patterns use 1/4” so the instructions have you position the elastic 1/8” or whatever the difference is between 1/4” and elastic width off the edge of the elastic. In the past I have marked the line on the fabric so it is even. This time I have added the extra to my pattern pieces so that I can line up the elastic with edge of the fabric to make life easier. So I adjusted both the bottom of the frame and band by 3/8” to accommodate the elastic in the kit. The armhole elastic in the kit is 1/4” so no adjustment needed.

The frame is cut in one from a layer of the white stretch mesh and the dot mesh held together with temporary adhesive spray. This is still really stretchy so I left on the paper I used to cover the mat for spraying and cut through the paper as well. This gives a really clean cut and the fabric stays in place as it is slightly tacky from the spray. I played around with the lace pieces to find where I wanted the centre join. Elastic is applied to centre upper edge of the frame. I changed out the nude provided for white.

The foam cups went together well. I covered the top edge with a sheer cup lining following the video tutorial as I feel it adds a really delicate touch to the finish. I covered with lace cups and basted in place. Then I attached to the very stretchy frame before moving on to the back bands. I enclosed the frame between the two layers of mesh and powernet to give extra support and a clean finish,

The bra was taking shape and already looking beautiful. I applied the plush elastic before applying white chaneling rather than the nude provided. Then onto the straps. The kit comes with some narrow strap elastic to make the pretty version shown on the website. However, this version is not covered in the pattern and I couldn’t find any links to make the strap this way. So it required a little guesswork as to the placement and length of elastic to use and playing around a little but looks fabulous. Then on to the underwear kit.

I have used this pattern before so I had the pieces traced off and ready to use. Again two layers of mesh are put together. Then my sewing woes started when attaching the lace sides to the centre front and back. The mesh just didn’t like me. In the end I stitched with tearaway stabiliser underneath. A little press and all sorted.

I used the elastic guides provided as this worked well last time. However, I did overlap first and then attach in the round using the quarter method as I find I get a more even distribution.

A quick make I moved on to the Ohhh Lulu Claudia hipster, a contrast to the high waisted 8228. Another versatile pattern using any combination of lace and fabric. I made a lace back with the front using the two layer mesh combination. Then I went off piste and cut a lace gusset (which I didn’t need) out of one of my back panels! Luckily just got another back panel from the left over lace. You join the back pieces and then enclose between the front panel and gusset lining, remembering there should be a gap for the leg elastic to fold over.

I took my time to ensure all the edges matched up perfectly. So worth the effort for such a perfect finish. I finished the waist with some, what I would call, “off white” fold over elastic.

That was going to be it, but as I tidied up I thought there must be enough to squeeze something else out. I thought about incorporating the narrow strap elastic to match the bra. I have another Ohhh Lulu pattern, the Nora, which has a version with adjustable sides that I thought I could use.

This pattern uses fold over elastic for the legs so I had to add on the width of my plush elastic. I just used my curved ruler which has a 1/4” line to fit the line of the pattern and cut around this for both the front and back pieces as well as the gusset whilst the spray was still tacky to stop the fabric moving. Then I got the widest piece of elastic left and used temporary spray adhesive to place over the front piece as high as possible and then cut around the leg to match the front piece. Unbelievably, the gusset piece I had mistakenly cut out of lace was a perfect for this gusset. Just a little trimming needed. Both front and back gusset seams are enclosed before applying the elastic.

To finish I placed two strands of the narrow elastic level with the edge of the side front right side up. I used a small straight stitch to attach the elastic along the 1/2 seam allowance. I then folded the seam allowance back and using a small zigzag I stitched the seam allowance down covering the raw edge. You can do this seam enclosing the elastic by turning it back on itself but it can be bulky. I wasn’t going to make adjustable sides so I measured the adjusted width of elastic on my previous makes, added the seam allowance and attached to the back using the same method. Another perfect match.

And now for a rest - well onto my Sew Over It knit kit!

Lace Perfection - Courtesy of Evie la Luve and Braugust2018

Been so busy with holiday and then work that I have not had chance to make anything with the beautiful kit I won for the #Braugust2018 Evie la Luve Mix and Match day. Having recently made the Darcey and Binky with this lace I wanted to try something different. So off I went and I think the result is amazing!

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The lace is so pretty and feminine so I wanted to find a pattern that could do it justice. Having made the Darcey bralette I looked around for a bra pattern. Evie la Luve had posted a few pictures on Instagram of some bra ideas she had been playing around with but said the pattern wouldn’t be out for a while. So I turned to my pattern stash. The Madalynne X Simplicity 8436 would be perfect.

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So I cut out my normal size and thought I would get a bit clever and try to make some foam pads as in the Madalynne X Simplicity 8624. I traced off the pattern and then used the foam pieces of the 8624 to get the shape. The dart was slightly longer on the 8436 so I made the curve at the point of the dart. Then I realised two things. One this was going to be too small and, second, the lace is so open it needed to be lined for support.

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I went up a cup size and cut out the pieces again. This time with lining. Choosing the lining was difficult. I really needed to use a strong powernet for support but the colours I had would just spoil the pretty look I was going for so went with the perfect colour, although a little lightweight. The idea is to spray baste the lace and lining in one go and then cut out. When using the scalloped edge of lace it is not always possible to work with the fabric in its greatest direction of stretch but with the lining you need to think which way you want to place this. I was using a powernet which has a definite direction of stretch so I used two separate pieces of lining in different directions for the cups and band. The centre front I lined with sheer lining for stability. As it looked so pretty as this point I decided not to use the foam inserts.

For this pattern I couldn’t find any tutorials or sew along on Madalynne’s website so went along with the printed pattern instructions. In a rush to get finished I only skim read. The darts and neckline elastic are first. Both the lace and fabric are hard to mark so used my pink chaco liner. I have three of these - white, yellow and pink. The yellow and pink can stain so I use with care on the wrong side. I like to trace the line of the dart to make sure they are perfectly matched.

Then I applied clear elastic to the scalloped edge of the cup. I prefer clear elastic with such a sheer lace. Even with a prefect colour match you could still see this through the lace. The instructions use a normal zigzag but I prefer to use a three step zigzag the width of the elastic as this seems to eliminate any tunnelling.

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Then you attach the cups to centre front followed by the bands. I pin everything in place and then sew from one end of the cup to the other. This then leaves a line of sewing between the band and front (marked by the arrows) that you can use as a guide when applying the channeling. I applied the channeling slightly different to the pattern. I don’t pre-cut to the length of the cup but I apply directly along the line of stitching keeping taut as I do and leaving a tab at either end. I don’t start stitching for about 1/2” from the underarm seam. I use my Stitch in the Ditch foot to stitch as close to possible to the seam line. Then I fold up over the cup stitch the other side the same distance from the edge. The pattern has you start the channeling 3/8” (which is the the width of the elastic) away from the underarm

The next step is to apply the plush elastic to the upper edge. At this point I check the fit of the fastener. If too wide I can shape the band. If too narrow I can position the elastic further off the edge. Then I realised the pattern didn’t include any band elastic. Always read the instructions in full before starting! As my lace and powernet were so lightweight I would definitely need some extra support. This should have been applied to the band before it was attached to the cup. Rather than undo everything I applied 1/2”plush elastic along the edge with the picot edge upwards. When I got as far a I could, I stopped and cut round the cup. With my zipper foot on I sewed down this curved section. Then I applied fray check to the edge. Looked fine and so on to the top elastic.

As with other Simplicity patterns all the seam allowances are 1/4”. You need to to extend the elastic 1/8” over the edge. With the previous make I marked the 1/4” but this time I just went with my eye. Again I didn’t cut the elastic. I keep taut as I am applying, stretching more over the armpit area to give a snug fit. Now I fix the channeling at the underarm. I fold over the elastic and mark where this sits on the channeling. I then cut the channeling to sit between the the first pass and the bottom of the elastic. I then do the second pass with a three step zigzag enclosing the channeling.

With the fastener on, the straps made and attached to the front I try on and check the length and placement. I took about 3” off the strap as otherwise it would need tightening all the way back down to the band. The pattern comes with an underwear pattern but I wanted an all lace look so went to my favourite Evie la Luve Bella pattern. This is a great pattern if your lace isn’t that deep. Just enough lace left to match sides. Whipped these up in no time. Such an impressive make in such a short time.

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The prize not only included the kit but also the Lingerie Project Book and any two PDF patterns. As I already have most of the patterns I went for the Chloe thong and the Xo bra. The Xo is not a lace bra so I put that aside for another day and went on to make the thong.

I made some minor modifications to the pattern to make best use of the lace. I wanted to make the front piece and gusset all in one. This would mean I couldn’t enclose the lining at the front but it was the look I was after. So I printed another gusset and cut in half. I marked the 1/4” seam allowance on the front edge and I placed the gusset edge along the line, eliminating the seam allowance.

The placement of the lace was determined by its width. This lace has a mirrored pattern so I could fold in half. I placed the bottom edge of the pattern piece at the low point of the scallop on the bottom edge and cut up around the leg until it came off the lace at the top edge. I then used spray adhesive to hold in place whilst I used a small zigzag to attach along the scallop. Then finished in the normal way. Another triumph.

I always like to finish with a picture of the reverse side. So amazingly pretty for an afternoons work.

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Madalynne X Simplicity 8711 - Another Stunner

A wet weekend so I finally got chance to make the Madalynne X Simplicity 8711. I just had to have this pattern as soon as it came out which meant shipping from the US. There are some fabulous kits on the website but I had previously bought all the beautiful fabrics during a free shipping weekend so had plenty to choose from.

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The description is of an underwire bralette with an interior frame, called a floating bridge, that holds a continuous monowire for support. Floating bridge, monowire!

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So the big decision was what size monowire to buy. There is so much help on the website (including a guide you can download) I found easier to digest than the printed pattern. The guidance was to buy the size up and down from your calculations. Having made other Madalynne patterns I went with my usual size and the size up. And, just as suggested, I needed the larger size.

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Wire sorted I then had to decide which of three gorgeous fabrics to use. I have both the pink and blue metallic from the website but in the end I had to use the lace as I only had the right size fastener in the black. Too many choices for the lining! All the various shades of nude/peach worked but I decided on the peach powernet which being a light powernet has quite a silky soft feeling. For better support I used a matching sheer lining for the floating bridge.

Each band size has its own pattern pieces. So I photocopied my size and then cut out the cup size from these pieces. Alas, this was to be my downfall as I photocopied two band sizes as I wasn’t quite sure which one to use. After making my decision I failed to tidy up and some pattern pieces fell on the floor. Next day I didn’t check I had all the right sizes. Luckily it was just the floating bridge I cut in the wrong size so not too much wasted. I also failed to read the instructions and cut lace for the floating bridge not even thinking through the construction. Again not a lot of waste.

I followed the instructions on the sew along and the only variation was that I enclosed the front between the band fabric and lining. The instructions have you cover the seam with plush channeling. The lace has quite open spaces so it was hard to baste the band fabric and lining. It would have probably been better to use temporary spray adhesive. The fabric was also hard to mark. The seam allowances are all 1/4” so when you attach 3/8” plush elastic to the neck and underarm you have to hover the elastic 1/8”off the edge. So that I had this perfect I marked the 1/4” seam. Next time I will adjust the pattern piece for this. I also enlongated my mark for the straps on the back as once you fold the elastic over you loose the mark.

Then my usual dilemma of what colour thread to use when the elastic is a contrast to the fabric. I did the first pass in black thread. So although not the right way to do it I did the second pass with the fabric on top with the beige thread on top with black bobbin thread. You can just make out the top thread on the reverse. After seeing a recent Madalynne post on Instagram I applied the band elastic using my coverstitch machine. This looks pretty from the front and covers the overlap on the reverse. Just the straps and fastener to do. For once the fastener was a perfect fit and no adjustment to the back band necessary.

Bralette done and then on to the underwear. The pattern includes a really cute 3 ruffle low rise but I didn’t think the lace suited this. I hadn’t seen anyone else make matching underwear with this fabric. So I summoned all my creative powers and came out of my comfort zone to do something completely different. Probably should not have experimented with the lovely lace but the result was amazing.

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I thought I would try and match the bralette with elastic on the right side creating its own ruffle. The lace doesn’t have a scalloped edge so I was going to attempt to use a rolled hem on the overlocker. As the pieces were too big to photocopy I traced off my size on dot and cross paper. I would normally spray baste the lace and lining before cutting as one piece but rather than waste too much fabric I cut out individually and then used the temporary spray adhesive.

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Then had to make another decision. What colour fabric to use for the gusset. I didn’t have the right beige/peach so used black. It doesn’t photograph well but looks better on. I attached front and back, enclosing the back of the gusset and sewed the side seams so I could check the fit. The pattern uses 1/4” seam allowance so thought would need to cut at least this off all round. After trying on I decided to leave the seam allowance on the waist and took off 1/4 off most of the leg using my curved ruler to both mark and then redraw a smooth line. I marked on one side and then pinned together to cut in one go so both sides matched. Then I still needed to take a further 1/4” from just before and just after the gusset. Once happy with the shape I could move on and finish.

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So to the rolled hem. Finished a couple of rolled hems recently so wasn’t too fazed by changing the settings on the overlocker. I did a test and decided to try woolly nylon in the loopers for better coverage. This gave a much better result. This did stretch the edge slightly but after a quick steam looked fine. I did sew in the round which makes finishing off awkward but I think this looks better than finishing by joining one of the side seams.

I was amazed to find some narrow black elastic in my stash. It had a shiny side like strap elastic but not very strong which I though would be perfect for underwear as well as match the band on the bralette. I used the elastic guide that came with the pattern. I measured the waist and leg openings and deducted 20% of this for a snug fit and checked against the elastic guide. This was pretty spot on so was happy to use the guide.

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I overlapped the elastic by 1/4” and secured using a straight stitch. I then marked 1/4” along both waist and leg opening as a guide for attaching the elastic. I matched at the quarter points. Then I got a feel for how much I need to stretch the elastic before apply with a narrow 3 step zigzag. A quick steam and looking amazing.


I am just thrilled with this set. What amazing support even with the lightweight powernet and looks absolutely gorgeous with my version of the underwear. Thanks to the great designers out there we can all make beautiful, comfortable, perfect fitting lingerie. On a mission to spread the word!

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More Madalynne - Barrett and Noelle

Making my way through the free patterns from Madalynne.  There are some beautiful kits on her website but thought I would try out using my own stash.

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First up is the Barrett which I have paired up with the undie from the Madalynne Simplicity X 8624 pattern.  I did buy all the other patterns in a bundle at the same time!

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The heart mesh is a recent purchase from Emerald Erin.  For me I needed a bit of support so tried out a number of fabrics for the lining but went with a strong powernet in red.  

For a free pattern the instructions are pretty good with great pictures.  The only part I struggled with was placing of the elastic at the cross over.  I couldn't get mine to look like the picture but this maybe due to the size I was doing.

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I did make sure that the heart matched at the centre front.  All cup and side seams are enclosed for a comfortable fit.  I was amazed at the fit and support for a bralette.  Can't wait to do in the glitter mesh kit.  

 

 

As I also lined the undie I could enclose both gusset seams.  I didn't have a scallop edge on the mesh so I added 3/8" to the pattern to allow for the turn back of the elastic on the leg opening.  Worked pretty well but when I make again I think I will go down a size.

So pleased with the result.  Another stunning set.

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Next up is the Noelle bralette. Unlike the newer Barrett pattern this has just written instructions.  Not an issue as a project for all levels.  Had this lace around for a while and definitely needed lining.  Again I went for strong powernet.

I used a temporary spray to keep the lace in place and did the darts through both layers as I didn't want them to show through the lace.  Enclosed the side seam between the lace and lining of the back and did the same for the band.  I am now getting a feel for how much to pull the elastic, if at all.  I do like to pull along the underarm as this gives a much better fit.  

The seam between the body and band is hidden by elastic which also keeps it in place.  Elastic is also attached to the bottom of the band which stops it from riding up.  I didn't have a large enough black ring for the back so I just used a black sharpie on a white one!

Another impressive make!  Looks gorgeous and again supportive because of the strong powernet.  I will definitely be making more of these.

Madalynne Simplicity X 8624 and Orange Lingerie Kingston Thong

As there is a beautifully photographed 3 day sew along on the blog this is a short post on the Madalynne X Simplicity 8624 pattern and the white and yellow bra kit. As an an alternative to making the Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief, as I always do when I have a small amount of lace, I tried the Kingston thong.

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The first point to make is that the kit is made in a slightly different way to the pattern so do check carefully especially for the fit of the hook and eye fastener.  

When using lace I like to mark the seam allowance on the pattern so I can see the point at which the lace will meet.  I cut out one side and then flip over to find the perfect pattern match.  I then place the pattern piece over rather than just cut around the pattern.  For the back band I have used a spray adhesive to hold the lace to the powernet and then cut out in one.

The foam cups are butted together and sewn using a zigzag.  Personally I use a stitch length of 4 and stitch width of 1.5 as taught by Beverly Johnson on her Craftsy Class.  Then I overlock the upper edge of the cup.  At this point I would just like to mention the thread I use for lingerie which is Gutermann Mara 120 industry quality polyester.  Another tip from Beverly.  Is is really fine and blends into the fabric.

The elastic is added to the back band and then attached to the cup.  The elastic is placed behind the lace which is different to the pattern where it sits on top.   This where you need to check the fit of the hook and eye.  Then the elastic is added to join the two cups.  It is really important to get this in the right place.  Depending on the size you are making you may want to use ribbon instead of elastic.  I used a white iron on stabiliser the width of the elastic.  Just the very pretty straps to do.  After making up I attached at the front, put on the hook and eye fastener and tried on so I could check the position of the straps at the back.  I had to move over to the middle slightly for them to sit correctly.

What to make with the leftovers?  With such a small amount of lace I went for the Kingston thong which like the Montgomery brief as a front lace panel.  I had plenty of stretch mesh over to line.  I spray baste together and cut as one on paper which I find helps give a clean cut with lace.  There was enough yellow elastic for the waist and I added white elastic for the legs, a cream lightweight powernet for the back and gusset as well as narrow elastic to match the mesh for the top of the lace panel.

As with the Montgomery the back seam is enclosed.  This is done by folding one side along the fold line wrong sides together. Then fold the other side around this piece with right sides together and stitch the back seam through all layers.  You then bring to the right side by bringing the top back piece over the seam.  Very pretty as I do like to tell myself!