Who needs a reason to make more lingerie!

I don’t but I have lost so much weight since I have been back in the gym that nothing really fits so August turned into a bit of a lingerie sewing marathon. Luckily I have a stack of patterns to work with but picked up a few more along the way. So here are a few of my makes.

Emerald Erin Black Beauty

Emerald Erin Black Beauty

Orange Lingerie Devonshire

Orange Lingerie Devonshire

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Having found my most recent make, the Emerald Erin Black Beauty, to be a perfect fit I thought I would make another version. I was intending to use one of the tulle kits in pistachio or rose with latte findings but Nellie Joans posted a kit with mint and seashell pink and I was sold. I checked my stash and was really pleased to be able to put together a similar look using a Tailor Made kit. I added the nude foam as I wanted a pretty day bra without any show through. For a set I made both an Orange Lingerie Montgomery brief and a plain Evie la Luve Binky.

The tulle comes specially cut and laid out in two layers, with opposing direction of stretch and soft sides out, ready to cut into as a single layer. So much attention to detail with both the kit and the pattern means you get a bra that fits as it should. I pretty much followed the instructions except I added an extra layer of nude tulle so I could enclose all the seams of the cradle.

Luckily I had bought some stretch tulle from Small Bobbins which matched perfectly. A bit wary of using such sheer material for underwear I first made the Montgomery brief. This uses two layers for a no vpl look. A big favorite of mine as you can use just a scrap of lace. The coral and pink lace from Fit2Sew worked perfectly but I only had a small piece meant for the upper cup of a bra. I lined the lace with some nude mesh.

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The stretch tulle was so easy to work with that I decided to try a very sheer Binky. All three look absolutely amazing. So I moved on to using the scrap of lace left. I wanted something to match the first Black Beauty and went back to another Emerald Erin pattern, the Tuesday boyshort. I ended up photocopying the lace to make sure I could get a match. Worked beautifully with the pink bamboo also from Emerald Erin.

Around the same time the Black Beauty was released Orange Lingerie released the Devonshire bra. The patterns description says “I wanted to create beautiful uplift with delicate lace… Vertical seams are great for uplift and the result of the cup structure with the lace scallop edge is just gorgeous!” And that is exactly what you get!

The timing was perfect as it was released just as my order from Tailor Made arrived. I made up a paper cup to check the size and worked with that. For a little more support I added the navy foam (Fit2Sew) rather than line. Again I followed the instructions except for the front strap. Rather than a fabric strap I attached navy ribbon to the gorgeous neon pink that came with the kit to stabilise. I didn’t have a bright pink fastener so I made my own from pink duoplex using another Orange Lingerie pattern - the Leverett. A little fiddly but but well worth the effort.

As with all Tailor Made kits there was plenty of lace to make both the Studio Costura Stella Panties and an all lace Evie la Luve Esme which I hadn’t done before. The colours are just amazing and fit beautifully.

Without making this too long I just want to add two more makes. The first is the free Madalynne Raquel bralette pattern using some some beautiful lace and dot stretch mesh that I picked in person when she came over to London! I added a middle strap to the centre front and stabilised all three pieces. This is just so amazingly pretty and looks fabulous.

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And I thought I would finish with another beautiful Bra-makers Supply Ruby. This is the third I have made to match my diminishing size and their BCD method works every time! So now I am three band and cup sizes smaller than when I made my first. It looks and fits perfect. What I like is that it is made using supplies from relatively local sources. Evie la Luve is now stocking soft foam in beautiful colours along with matching powernet. This is called shell and is perfect with the lace from Sew Your Own Wardrobe. This is for everyday wear and teamed with another Stella.

I adjusted the pattern for a lace upper cup as well as a lace frame. As this is a four piece cup I carefully marked all the notches as well as labelled the corners to make sure I got the right way up. The foam pieces matched perfectly.

I made the cups up first and then added a tapered short strap which I had seen on Beverly Johnson’s Bluprint (was called Craftsy) Sewing Bras: Designer Techniques class. For the cradle I permanently adhered the lace to the tulle using Misty Fuse, another Beverly tip. Then I had to decide on the actual strap as the colour I thought of using wasn’t quite right. So with Strap-tember Bramakers Challenge in mind I cut a strip of the lace wide enough to wrap the strap. I then attached to the strap along the raw edge using the overlocker so I could then wrap around leaving the scallop edge on top which I stitched in place. What a result!

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This took up a lot of lace so after much playing around with the pattern pieces I went with the configuration that left the smallest gap. I already needed a piece for the middle as the lace wasn’t wide enough (good tip from Studio Costura). I matched the corner with a scrap of lace. I stitched in place with a small zigzag and then trimmed back to the stitching with applique scissors. As it is close to the seam allowance and the fold of the waist elastic you can’t see it. With no lace leftover I made the gusset with the powernet and looks fabulous.

And now for a break!

Scuba Sensation - Evie la Luve Jamie Bodysuit

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Well there was 20% off PDF patterns at the weekend to celebrate three years of Evie la Luve so I thought I would get the one pattern I didn’t have. It tied in with a few Instagram posts on the Jamie and the gorgeous kit that I’d had my eye for a while. It was going to be a Christmas present but is so sensational I am going to keep it for myself. So here we are!

The kit was for a bra and pantie set but there is enough fabric to make plenty more. I needed some extra strap elastic as well as rings and sliders. The pattern uses a three row fastener but you can adapt the back band for any size. However, I felt I would prefer the extra support of the three row and swapped out the two row one included in the kit. All perfectly matched as everything came from the Evie la Luve shop - all such fabulous quality and gorgeous colours

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The beauty of this pattern is that it is designed so that any bra size will fit any pantie size and can also be made as separates, although I made the same size top and bottom. I didn’t really do any pattern matching except to try and get the light marbling to the middle without wasting too much fabric! The scuba is so super soft but thick to cut through so I really did need to change the blade in my rotary cutter.

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First you make the bra up in the main fabric. There is quite a curve on the front seam so it is really important to mark the notches. I also marked the seam allowance at the edges as given the shape of the pieces I wanted to make sure I had them lined up correctly. Although the instructions are very clear about the size of the seam allowance it does change so read carefully. You trim the seam allowance and press open (as much as you can with scuba).

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You do the same with the lining fabric. You then baste together. I did this by hand and used silk thread as this comes out easily and doesn’t leave any marks. I also stitched together along the seam allowances to keep in place. On to the gusset of the panties with seam enclosed . I finished the side seams with the overlocker. I did have to refer to the manual as the cutting width was too narrow and hence the blade needed moving.

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On to the elastic.

Plush elastic is applied to the bra band and the open sides of the panties. I prefer to leave a tail at either end as I find elastic easier to work with this way and also a neater finish when the elastic is folded over. I just cut off any excess. As I was using a measured amount of elastic I still matched the quarter points so would be symmetrical.

Next the fold over elastic is applied to the leg in the round. I always sew the ends together on a piece of Stitch-N-Tear as this stops the elastic from scrunching up. I start from the middle and then sew up and down and back to the middle so I have no threads hanging off the edge. Then I use a fabric glue pen to keep the seam allowance in place. I always try and place the join out of the way but the neater the better wherever it is.

Before applying the fold over elastic to the top section of the bra you need to check that the band fits into the fastener. I always place both sides together and do any adjustments as one to ensure matching sides. A perfect fit this time so on to the top elastic. All looking pretty with just the last section of strap elastic to do.

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At this point I prepared all the strap elastic. There is quite a lot of preparation!

The rings for the bra top are 5/8” with the rest of the rings and sliders being 1/2”. As always I use a fabric glue pen to keep the straps in place whilst I sew. Once I have trimmed back to the stitching I apply a dab of Fray Check.

Perfectly neat straps all the time!

Then on to stitching the centre seam and time for the walking foot as there is so much bulk with all that elastic in the seam. I finished off with the overlocker. In hindsight I should have done this first as even the overlocker struggled and the seam just didn’t want to press open. So I tacked the seam down around the elastic. I also finished off the back waist with the overlocker as I thought it would look neater than just being trimmed back to the zigzag stitches.

Next you place the the elastic over the waist opening. I marked both the centres and drew a 1/4” line above the seam to place the elastic evenly. For the back waist I marked 1/4” down from the edge. Then the rest of the elastic is sewn in.

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All done.

It wasn’t meant for me (although I did make it in my size) but I just had to try on. To be honest I didn’t think it would look that good on me as I thought the leg would be cut a little high for me and the waist opening might dig into my hip. Well I was wrong! The plush elastic gives it a snug fit without any digging and the slider on the waist elastic allows for a perfect adjustment.

All in time for Day2 of #bpSewvember on Instagram - Luxurious. This is the softest scuba I have come across and it looks just stunning. Makes a girl (a liberal use of the word in my case) feel amazing!