Scuba Sensation - Evie la Luve Jamie Bodysuit

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Well there was 20% off PDF patterns at the weekend to celebrate three years of Evie la Luve so I thought I would get the one pattern I didn’t have. It tied in with a few Instagram posts on the Jamie and the gorgeous kit that I’d had my eye for a while. It was going to be a Christmas present but is so sensational I am going to keep it for myself. So here we are!

The kit was for a bra and pantie set but there is enough fabric to make plenty more. I needed some extra strap elastic as well as rings and sliders. The pattern uses a three row fastener but you can adapt the back band for any size. However, I felt I would prefer the extra support of the three row and swapped out the two row one included in the kit. All perfectly matched as everything came from the Evie la Luve shop - all such fabulous quality and gorgeous colours

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The beauty of this pattern is that it is designed so that any bra size will fit any pantie size and can also be made as separates, although I made the same size top and bottom. I didn’t really do any pattern matching except to try and get the light marbling to the middle without wasting too much fabric! The scuba is so super soft but thick to cut through so I really did need to change the blade in my rotary cutter.

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First you make the bra up in the main fabric. There is quite a curve on the front seam so it is really important to mark the notches. I also marked the seam allowance at the edges as given the shape of the pieces I wanted to make sure I had them lined up correctly. Although the instructions are very clear about the size of the seam allowance it does change so read carefully. You trim the seam allowance and press open (as much as you can with scuba).

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You do the same with the lining fabric. You then baste together. I did this by hand and used silk thread as this comes out easily and doesn’t leave any marks. I also stitched together along the seam allowances to keep in place. On to the gusset of the panties with seam enclosed . I finished the side seams with the overlocker. I did have to refer to the manual as the cutting width was too narrow and hence the blade needed moving.

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On to the elastic.

Plush elastic is applied to the bra band and the open sides of the panties. I prefer to leave a tail at either end as I find elastic easier to work with this way and also a neater finish when the elastic is folded over. I just cut off any excess. As I was using a measured amount of elastic I still matched the quarter points so would be symmetrical.

Next the fold over elastic is applied to the leg in the round. I always sew the ends together on a piece of Stitch-N-Tear as this stops the elastic from scrunching up. I start from the middle and then sew up and down and back to the middle so I have no threads hanging off the edge. Then I use a fabric glue pen to keep the seam allowance in place. I always try and place the join out of the way but the neater the better wherever it is.

Before applying the fold over elastic to the top section of the bra you need to check that the band fits into the fastener. I always place both sides together and do any adjustments as one to ensure matching sides. A perfect fit this time so on to the top elastic. All looking pretty with just the last section of strap elastic to do.

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At this point I prepared all the strap elastic. There is quite a lot of preparation!

The rings for the bra top are 5/8” with the rest of the rings and sliders being 1/2”. As always I use a fabric glue pen to keep the straps in place whilst I sew. Once I have trimmed back to the stitching I apply a dab of Fray Check.

Perfectly neat straps all the time!

Then on to stitching the centre seam and time for the walking foot as there is so much bulk with all that elastic in the seam. I finished off with the overlocker. In hindsight I should have done this first as even the overlocker struggled and the seam just didn’t want to press open. So I tacked the seam down around the elastic. I also finished off the back waist with the overlocker as I thought it would look neater than just being trimmed back to the zigzag stitches.

Next you place the the elastic over the waist opening. I marked both the centres and drew a 1/4” line above the seam to place the elastic evenly. For the back waist I marked 1/4” down from the edge. Then the rest of the elastic is sewn in.

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All done.

It wasn’t meant for me (although I did make it in my size) but I just had to try on. To be honest I didn’t think it would look that good on me as I thought the leg would be cut a little high for me and the waist opening might dig into my hip. Well I was wrong! The plush elastic gives it a snug fit without any digging and the slider on the waist elastic allows for a perfect adjustment.

All in time for Day2 of #bpSewvember on Instagram - Luxurious. This is the softest scuba I have come across and it looks just stunning. Makes a girl (a liberal use of the word in my case) feel amazing!

Madalynne X Simplicity 8711 - Another Stunner

A wet weekend so I finally got chance to make the Madalynne X Simplicity 8711. I just had to have this pattern as soon as it came out which meant shipping from the US. There are some fabulous kits on the website but I had previously bought all the beautiful fabrics during a free shipping weekend so had plenty to choose from.

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The description is of an underwire bralette with an interior frame, called a floating bridge, that holds a continuous monowire for support. Floating bridge, monowire!

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So the big decision was what size monowire to buy. There is so much help on the website (including a guide you can download) I found easier to digest than the printed pattern. The guidance was to buy the size up and down from your calculations. Having made other Madalynne patterns I went with my usual size and the size up. And, just as suggested, I needed the larger size.

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Wire sorted I then had to decide which of three gorgeous fabrics to use. I have both the pink and blue metallic from the website but in the end I had to use the lace as I only had the right size fastener in the black. Too many choices for the lining! All the various shades of nude/peach worked but I decided on the peach powernet which being a light powernet has quite a silky soft feeling. For better support I used a matching sheer lining for the floating bridge.

Each band size has its own pattern pieces. So I photocopied my size and then cut out the cup size from these pieces. Alas, this was to be my downfall as I photocopied two band sizes as I wasn’t quite sure which one to use. After making my decision I failed to tidy up and some pattern pieces fell on the floor. Next day I didn’t check I had all the right sizes. Luckily it was just the floating bridge I cut in the wrong size so not too much wasted. I also failed to read the instructions and cut lace for the floating bridge not even thinking through the construction. Again not a lot of waste.

I followed the instructions on the sew along and the only variation was that I enclosed the front between the band fabric and lining. The instructions have you cover the seam with plush channeling. The lace has quite open spaces so it was hard to baste the band fabric and lining. It would have probably been better to use temporary spray adhesive. The fabric was also hard to mark. The seam allowances are all 1/4” so when you attach 3/8” plush elastic to the neck and underarm you have to hover the elastic 1/8”off the edge. So that I had this perfect I marked the 1/4” seam. Next time I will adjust the pattern piece for this. I also enlongated my mark for the straps on the back as once you fold the elastic over you loose the mark.

Then my usual dilemma of what colour thread to use when the elastic is a contrast to the fabric. I did the first pass in black thread. So although not the right way to do it I did the second pass with the fabric on top with the beige thread on top with black bobbin thread. You can just make out the top thread on the reverse. After seeing a recent Madalynne post on Instagram I applied the band elastic using my coverstitch machine. This looks pretty from the front and covers the overlap on the reverse. Just the straps and fastener to do. For once the fastener was a perfect fit and no adjustment to the back band necessary.

Bralette done and then on to the underwear. The pattern includes a really cute 3 ruffle low rise but I didn’t think the lace suited this. I hadn’t seen anyone else make matching underwear with this fabric. So I summoned all my creative powers and came out of my comfort zone to do something completely different. Probably should not have experimented with the lovely lace but the result was amazing.

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I thought I would try and match the bralette with elastic on the right side creating its own ruffle. The lace doesn’t have a scalloped edge so I was going to attempt to use a rolled hem on the overlocker. As the pieces were too big to photocopy I traced off my size on dot and cross paper. I would normally spray baste the lace and lining before cutting as one piece but rather than waste too much fabric I cut out individually and then used the temporary spray adhesive.

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Then had to make another decision. What colour fabric to use for the gusset. I didn’t have the right beige/peach so used black. It doesn’t photograph well but looks better on. I attached front and back, enclosing the back of the gusset and sewed the side seams so I could check the fit. The pattern uses 1/4” seam allowance so thought would need to cut at least this off all round. After trying on I decided to leave the seam allowance on the waist and took off 1/4 off most of the leg using my curved ruler to both mark and then redraw a smooth line. I marked on one side and then pinned together to cut in one go so both sides matched. Then I still needed to take a further 1/4” from just before and just after the gusset. Once happy with the shape I could move on and finish.

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So to the rolled hem. Finished a couple of rolled hems recently so wasn’t too fazed by changing the settings on the overlocker. I did a test and decided to try woolly nylon in the loopers for better coverage. This gave a much better result. This did stretch the edge slightly but after a quick steam looked fine. I did sew in the round which makes finishing off awkward but I think this looks better than finishing by joining one of the side seams.

I was amazed to find some narrow black elastic in my stash. It had a shiny side like strap elastic but not very strong which I though would be perfect for underwear as well as match the band on the bralette. I used the elastic guide that came with the pattern. I measured the waist and leg openings and deducted 20% of this for a snug fit and checked against the elastic guide. This was pretty spot on so was happy to use the guide.

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I overlapped the elastic by 1/4” and secured using a straight stitch. I then marked 1/4” along both waist and leg opening as a guide for attaching the elastic. I matched at the quarter points. Then I got a feel for how much I need to stretch the elastic before apply with a narrow 3 step zigzag. A quick steam and looking amazing.


I am just thrilled with this set. What amazing support even with the lightweight powernet and looks absolutely gorgeous with my version of the underwear. Thanks to the great designers out there we can all make beautiful, comfortable, perfect fitting lingerie. On a mission to spread the word!

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