Summer Lingerie Part 4 - Evie la Luve Darcey and Binky again!

Not sure what I would get out of the scraps I first cut the pieces for the Binky and decided how to finish once I worked out what bra I could make.  So it ended up being the Darcey Style 3 and Binky Style 5.

Has I had fussy cut the last two sets I had quite a lot of small pieces left so it was hard to find enough to make a bra after using the last two big pieces for the Binky.  The purple contrast had worked so well with the Romy that I thought I would try the mesh Darcey version, reducing the amount of fabric needed.  This used up most of the purple fold over and I had already used up my supply of navy.  So I used the ice blue for the waist and decided to try the narrow lace for the leg of the Binky.

First up was the Darcey.  The curve of the mesh looks daunting but as with every Evie la Luve pattern the pieces went together really well.  What I would say is make sure you mark ( I never snip)  the notches accurately and make sure they match as this ensures the proper placement of the curved pieces.  As the mesh is dark I did grade the seam allowance to ensure it was tucked between the lighter layers. Then I pressed over a tailor's ham.

The bra is then finished as Style 1.  The centre front piece is enclosed by the side fronts fabric and lining.  Again grading the seam allowance and pressing using the tailor's ham.  The side front is then enclosed by the back band fabric and lining.  

The next step is the first pass of the band elastic.  The back straps are then attached to the inside of the bra on the band elastic.  So when the band elastic is folded back for the second pass the straps are neatly enclosed.  This is such a neat method. Then the fold over elastic is applied to the neckline.  As always, before applying to the top edge of the bra, you check the back band fits into the fastener.  I shaved a small amount of, with both sides together, so they match.  Guidelines are given for the length of elastic and this works pretty well for me.  The point I would make here is to make sure you mark the centre of the elastic for the V of the neckline so evenly matched on both sides.

The inside of this bra is as good as the outside.

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Then on to the Binky.  I thought I would finish the leg with some narrow lace.  I have done once before on a Frankie and it turned out pretty good.  I had forgotten what I a time consuming method this is.  You pin the lace along the edge of the lace on one side and then mirror on the other side.  I did not baste but went straight to sewing as the lace was not moving around on the fabric.  

Then I used a small zigzag all around the inner edge of the lace which is a lot of lifting of the presser foot for an even curve!   The next step is to trim the fabric close to the stitching.  This is where applique (duckbill) scissors come into their own,  I have two different sizes.  I did most with the larger pair and then went to the smaller pair for any tight turns.  

I did use white bobbin thread so you can hardly see the stitching.  Then a perfect match on the side seams.  I certainly got value for money with a yard of fabric!

Summer Lingerie Part 3 - Evie la Luve Old Favourites - Rosie and Esme

So for the third make I wanted to use the lace I had in my stash to a make a pretty feminine set.  The Esme is a very flattering fit and started my obsession with Evie la Luve patterns.  It came in a deal with the Bella and is the first lingerie pattern I bought after taking the Beverly Johnson Craftsy classes.  I am capable of drafting my own patterns but I do enjoy testing what is out there.  I wanted to team up with a softer lace bralette so I went back to the Rosie which I have only made for my sister and thought would try for myself.

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My first task is to mark the seam line for any lace pattern pieces so I can make sure it sits at the low point of lace (lopol) where it needs to match.  This pattern has a centre front seam so it is important to be in the right place here.  The top edge is less important but actually worked quite well here as well.

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Although not called for in the pattern I lined the lace as well.  I deliberated between nude and white but then thought about the lilac powernet (fabric piece from Sewing Chest).  It looks really pretty underneath but the picture doesn't really pick this up.  As usual I used a temporary adhesive spray to hold in place and then used some very narrow soft elastic to cover the edge, all giving extra support.

 

I fussy cut the side fronts and back to try to find sections with as much as the ice blue as I could as not as dominant as the navy or purple.

The pattern has you attach the band to the side front for both fabric and lining and then enclose the the centre front piece.  I thought twice about doing this as I would normal enclose the cup in the band fabric and lining but went along with the pattern.  This makes for a flatter side seam rather than having the bulk on one side. 

Not only did I trim the seam allowance to 1/4" I also further trimmed the centre front piece as this seam was so bulky with all the lining.  I pressed but didn't topstitch with a three step zigzag as in the pattern as I find that this can sometimes distort the fabric.  However, sometimes you do need to do this if the layers don't lie flat enough.  I hand basted the fabric to lining all around.  Not only do the stitches come out easier it stops over stretching the fabric as machine basting can do.

Then on to the centre front.  It is so important that the lace matches perfectly. Starting off with Stitch N Tear really helps keep in place.  So what to do with the open seam.  The patterns says to overlock and press to one side.  I have a major issue with this on lace as it often looks wrong from the right side when you can see the seam and doesn't always stay flat.  My solution is to trim the seam down to 1/4" very neatly (rotary cutter and ruler) and then I used a small zig zag to catch the seam.  You can't see this from the right side of the lace as the thread match is so good.

What colour elastic to use?  Didn't want to use white or blue again so went with the grey (from a Fit2Sew findings kit).  With just the picot edge showing this did pick up on the grey in the fabric.  However, too dark to use for the straps.  I did have some matt mint/ice blue strap elastic but didn't look right so went with white for the straps.  The straps are made a little different using four rings and into two sections.  Luckily I noticed that the pattern requires bigger rings on the front than the back.  I assumed this was because there is too much bulk for the smaller rings used for the strap itself.  Luckily I has some bigger white rings.  I checked the fastener fit before I attached the elastic to  the back band.  For once no trimming necessary.

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Then disaster.  I didn't seem to have enough strap width fabric to go over the ring at the front.  Just too much bulk.  So I found white strap elastic the width of the ring.  I cut two small strips and folded in half over the ring.  I neatened the edge with a satin stitch, cut back to the stitching and then used fabric glue to attached to the fabric so that the top of the fabric sat just over the ring.  Left to dry and did a row of stitching through all the bulk as well!  Looks rather neat.

Moving on to the Esme which I have made a number of times in different fabrics.  After frequent washes I noticed that leg openings become a little loose with time as there is no elastic applied just hemmed.

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So this time I have used elastic for more prolonged wear.    Then, rather than just overlocking the leg opening, I attached 1/4" soft elastic as I did this.  Then you have an exact 1/4" to turn over for the hem without needing to pin.  After first neatening the front edge with the overlocker I basted the gusset piece in place so you catch this when the hem is folded over.  This creates less bulk than if included in the fold over for the hem.

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I cut the lace for the back lace pieces so that the low point of the lace was on the gusset seam allowance.  Then I joined the lace pieces using a stretch stitch and neatened the edge with the machine double overcast stitch.  After attaching the front to the back with the overlocker I did some securing sttches at each edge.

Then, the beauty of this pattern is that you can adjust the amount of overlap of lace over the fabric for the perfect fit.  There is a guide point and for me this is just right.  Just so pretty front and back.  

As expected the Esme fit perfect.  The Rosie looks fabulous and is going to be great for those long summer nights!  Enough fabric for more?

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Summer Lingerie Part 2 - Ohhh Lulu Grace and Romy Purple Perfection

Next up is the purple contrast. I think I have spent more time thinking about what to make than sewing but the deliberation was worth it.  Another stunning set.

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For this set I wanted to make use of the purple powernet from Sewing Chest. I scoured my lingerie pattern folders as I still have some not yet tried. But in the end went with the Ohhh Lulu Grace Hipster and the Romy soft bra. Previous makes that had fit well.

The Grace is good for scraps of fabric and you can use woven fabrics on the bias for the centre front and back pieces.  Although I have used non stretch lace cut on the grainline when I didn’t have enough left from making a bra.  Fit a bit snug but still worked.  

This pattern is for regular elastic so the first job was to print out the pattern again and take off the elastic allowances off the waist and leg openings as I wanted to use fold over elastic.  The pattern has 1/2” seam allowances so I trimmed down to 1/4” making sure I marked this version of the pattern in red for when I use again.  This is where my plethora of rulers come in handy.  And, where no line I can use on my curved rulers I have the little seam allowance guide and I just join up the marks.  I bought the rulers after taking a lingerie pattern drafting class with Lorna Knight.  They have proved really useful both in drafting my own patterns and making adjustments to others.  

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This time I fussy cut the pieces a little to make sure I got some of the dark purple in each of the pattern pieces  Took a bit longer to cut out but worth doing.  I used a frixon pen to draw around one side and then flipped the piece over and drew around that so I could see the pattern piece in full.  If wrong just steam the mark and start again!

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The first step is to finish the front edge of the gusset lining as it is not enclosed in a seam.  I did this with what is called a double overcasting stitch on my sewing machine.  Not as good a coverage but I have taken to doing this on small sections when I am too lazy to get out the overlocker and/or not wanting to thread bobbins if I want the thread to match the fabric. Then on to the side seams.  I didn’t want the fabric to be seen through the powernet so I used my cover stitch with woolly nylon in the looper to keep the seam to the centre. Then I just trimmed the seam as close as I could to the stitching.

Just the fold over elastic to apply  I have found Evie La Luve’s guidelines to be a good fit.  I measured around the leg and waist and took off 1 1/4” for the leg and 1 1/2” for the waist.  My way of joining is to use a straight stitch over Stitch N Tear starting and finishing in the middle so I have no threads to cut off at the ends.  I then use a fabric water soluble glue pen to keep the seam allowance in place whilst I attach.  To finish I steam the elastic - it makes all the difference.  A great tip from Norma (Orange Lingerie).

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Moving on to the Romy.  The earlier version I made did ride up a little because the band elastic was not strong enough for purpose so I was going to use some wider and stronger elastic.  I meant to allow for this but I got carried away with fussing cutting the cups that I forgot to do.  However, the band elastic I used this time was much better quality.  BWear, one of the suppliers I use, does indicate the % stretch which is useful to know.  Looking lovely already!

The previous version I made was a lace neckline edge so this was a slightly different make.  You enclose the front upper cup edge between the front lower cup fabric and lining.  Although I matched the notches I was a bit concerned whether I had them in the right place but looked find when turned the right way.  The option is to understitch the seam allowance to the lining but I just trimmed the seam allowance down to 1/4".   

Then you enclose this front cup between the side cup fabric and lining.  Again I trimmed the seam allowance as very bulky with all the layers. 

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The bands are then enclosed using the burrito method. You pin the band to the right side of the fabric then bring the lining over like a sandwich.  Then you turn to right side so all enclosed.

The cups are then joined at the centre seam.  The instructions recommend basting by hand first as you have to sew from the very bulky fabric to the relatively thin mesh.  This can cause movement and the look depends on these points matching.

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You can either press this seam open or overlock and press to one side.  Pressing to one side, for me, is not aesthetically pleasing when using mesh but I didn't want to leave without finishing so I stitched a short line either side trimming back to the stitching line.  Not yet done in the picture but I then changed thread and did the same in white for the fabric keeping the seam flat and neat.

 

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There are no guides for the length of  fold over elastic just a gentle pull.  I am now getting a feel for what this means and the v of the neckline went well.  I am a little more enthusiastic along the underarm as fold over elastic is not as supportive as normal plush back elastic.

Then I had to make  decision at to what colour strap, band elastic and fastener use as I couldn't source the right colour purple.  A very difficult colour to gauge on a computer screen.  I went with white and it was the right choice.  Give myself a little pat on the back!

 

Part 4 – Evie la Luve Darcey and Binky

Part 3 - Evie la Luve Rosie and Esme

Part 1 - Cloth Habit Watson and Evie la Luve Binky

Summer Lingerie Part 1 - Watson and Binky Perfect Partners

A lot of the designers I follow use Spoonflower designs so I thought I would test some of the fabrics out.  My first purchase included some beautiful watercolour cotton spandex jersey designed by Crystal Walen with the lovely title of Mystical Floral.  The thought was to make a collection of wireless bras or bralettes for those hot summer days and obviously some coordinating bottoms.

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So what to do with the fabric.  Too many choices.  My first thought was the Cloth Habit Watson.  This is a pattern for a stretch fabric bra without wires.  Perfect for warm summer days.  I had made the regular version last year and it was a fabulous fit.  It is The only issue for me is that it does ride up a little.  So this time I went for the longline version hoping it would stay in place. 

Then had to decide what colour trims to use.  I ordered bra finding kits in navy, grey and turquoise from Fit2Sew along with purple powernet and lace from Sewing Chest.  Then found some plum, grey and ice blue fold over elastic from Evie la Luve.   

I really like the pattern instructions for this bra.  There is a good section about what fabrics to use and how this may affect the size you make.  What I also like is that Amy gives stitch width and length indications.  I found this really useful when I started my lingerie journey last year.

For the first set I went for navy as the kits include some pretty neckline elastic.  For the cradle I used sheer cup lining to stabilise the very stretchy fabric.  I cut the cradle in one piece after using my favourite temporary adhesive spray to hold the fabrics together.  For the rest I used a lightweight powernet lining.  

The patterns doesn't have you enclose the seams but I always prefer to do so where I can.  The inner cup is enclosed by the outer cup and then I baste the two layers together all around the cup.  My dilemma is always what colour thread to use when the elastic is a contract to the fabric.  I tried the navy but looked wrong so I ended up with white on top and blue in the bobbin.  The white did show slightly on the elastic but not enough to bother me.  Then I enclosed the cradle in the band and band lining.

You can just make out the mark for the 1/4" centre point mark where you sew up to for the first cup.  Then you sew the second cup from this point.  This was little awkward because the elastic had such a fancy picot edge but fitted together pretty well.  

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A year on and a little more fussy about the inside of my makes I decided to tackle the unfinished seam.  The next step is to topstitch the seam allowance to the cradle.  I decided to use my coverstitch with wooly nylon for the underneath as it gives great coverage.  Pretty pleased with the result.  All looking so neat and tidy.

 

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Before I put the strap elastic on I had to adjust the band as I didn't have a long fastener.  Quite a bit to take off so I got out my french curve to ensure a smooth blend.  I then pin the bands together and cut in one so match exactly.  Although a small kit the strap is quite wide but actually helps the look bringing out a little more of the navy.  The bow came with the kit so decided to use.

 

I found a tiny bit of navy lace which was just enough to make the lace overlay Binky which I have covered in earlier blogs.  This new pattern from Evie la Luve is so versatile and  a great fit.  Perfect partner for summer lingerie.  Pretty and comfortable!

Part 4 – Evie la Luve Darcey and Binky

Part 3 - Evie la Luve Rosie and Esme

Part 2 - Ohhhlulu Romy and Grace