After the lingerie set and the embroidered sweatshirt I decided to round the week off with the pencil skirt from The Maker's Atelier Essential Collection. Well I had just bought the sequin fabric from Bambers As the skirt is made in stretch fabric it doesn't restrict movement like a traditional tailored pencil skirt.
One of the examples in the book is a sequin fabric so, having bought the rose gold fabric, I thought I would give it a go. The pattern isn't for a lined skirt but this fabric would not be nice against the skin. I went with a dusky pink stretch crepe for the lining, a suggestion from Jennine, one of the very helpful ladies in the shop,
The patterns in the book are printed both sides so you do need to trace off the pattern pieces you require. At this point I hadn't decided how to put in the lining so I just cut out the same pieces in the lining fabric. As I only had one pattern piece and it was cut in a double layer I did not need to worry about direction but I don't think it would matter with this fabric.
An internet search had taken me to Lauren Guthrie's blog on sewing with sequins which also had a video tutorial link with some great advice. With this fabric you can just pin and cut as normal although i did use one of my older pair of scissors. Be prepared for a messy work space!
I sewed the sides of the lining first to check the fit. For me it was perfect - snug but not overly tight. For the sequin fabric I started with a regular 14 needle but changed to a denim 16 when it broke. As suggested in the book I used a straight stitch just applying a little tension as I fed the fabric through the machine.
Then I had to decide how to attach the lining. I suddenly thought I couldn't simply put wrong sides together and turn over the top edge as then the sequin fabric would be against my skin. So with right sides together I stitched on what would be the fold line for the waist. I turned to the right side and stitched along the edge with a stretch stitch ensuring the lining fabric was not showing. Then I stitched another row the width of the elastic away from the first row leaving a gap to insert the elastic. I threaded the elastic through and used a safety pin to tie the ends together whilst I checked the fit. I did need to shorten the elastic. I then stitched the ends of the elastic together and closed up the gap. The end result is pretty neat.
Although I had finger pressed the seams they didn't seem to want to lie flat so I went back and stitched them down. For the lining I used the machine but the sequin fabric I did by hand using a silk thread and a cross over hem stitch. It didn't take long but looked much better.
I was going to bag the hem but the sequin fabric had stretched out slightly and was now wider than the lining, so I just machine hemmed both ensuring the lining did not show. I did press the hem with some steam just to flatten and it worked.
So now I need to make a top. The suggestion in the book is for tonal matte-finish fabric using the the drape top pattern in the collection. I'll let you know how I get on.